1. Shoe Odor Absorbers
Okay, it’s not the sexiest gift idea to start with. But everyone knows rock climbing shoes can get stinky fast. And if they sit in your climbing bag, everything else absorbs the stink, too. Going out on a limb (but not too far out), we'll say that no climber wants stinky shoes and a climbing bag, so what's a better gift than to climbing shoe odor absorbers? They even come in some fun shapes and colors, like bananas or tie-dye colored balls.
2. Water bottle
There is no such thing as too many water bottles, and there are very few things that climbers take more pride in than their stickered Nalgenes or Hydro Flask. Opt for a water bottle that’s at least 32oz, and either has a fun design or a neutral color that would look good with stickers on it. For extra brownie points, buy some fun vinyl stickers and throw them inside the water bottle for an additional gift and a lovely surprise for the climber you’re giving the V-day gift.
3. Beanie
Valentine’s Day falls at the perfect time of year to gift a cute beanie to your special someone. Even if it’s just wearing it to and from the car and climbing gym, they’ll love the cute new accessory. It’s also a wonderful gift if they enjoy outdoor bouldering or climbing, as cold ears are never fun, but colder temperatures are great for sending.
4. Chalk sock
Even if the climber you’re getting a gift for uses loose chalk in their chalk bag/bucket, a chalk sock is usually a welcome addition. As they are more expensive than loose chalk, they likely wouldn’t buy it for themselves, but many climbers appreciate having one to grab when they reach into their bag to chalk up. If you want, buy them 2 or 3 so that they have a stock to last for a few months!
5. Chalk bag or chalk bucket
After a while, chalk bags can wear down, break, or get covered in dirt stains beyond what is worth cleaning. Many climbing gear brands make cute chalk bags in various shapes, colors, and patterns. You could also get them a chalk bucket, which also comes in a variety of colors and patterns. If they already have a suitable chalk bag but enjoy bouldering, then the chalk bucket will be a game changer and utilized for bouldering.
6. Hair-ties
It's a classic but always needed and appreciated by climbers with long hair. Switch it up by buying a combination of different colors, thicknesses, and brands; add in some colorful scrunchies or claw clips, too, and they’ll love it!
1. Jacket or Sweatshirt
Whether climbing outside or heading to the rock climbing gym on a crisp afternoon, every climber appreciates a good jacket that they can layer over a t-shirt or tank top. REI, Patagonia, Kuhl, and The North Face are just a few brands with a wide selection of athletic jacket options that are great for layering. Also, many rock climbing gyms sell branded merchandise in the retail area. If the climber you're shopping for loves their local climbing gym, consider buying them a sweatshirt from their retail area or with the gym's logo! You'll be supporting locals and giving a gift they're guaranteed to wear.
2. Portable Hangboard
Great for the climber who loves to take outdoor trips or add in training wherever possible. There are many options of portable hang boards on the market, and they come in various sizes. Some can even clamp to door frames, making it easy to put them up anywhere, while others need a carabiner or tree branch to loop them over.
3. Gift card to an Athletic Clothing Store (Lulu Lemon, Athleta, REI, Prana)
There's nothing worse than getting an outfit that is super cute but doesn't fit. But, on the flip side, there's nothing better than getting to buy the outfit you've had your eye on for months. Gifting your favorite climber either a shopping trip to their favorite athletic wear store or a gift card is a guaranteed way to make them happy. They’ll appreciate the thought but be pleased that they get to pick out the exact pieces of clothing they want.
4. Yoga Mat
Most rock climbers will appreciate a high-quality yoga mat. Whether they frequent yoga classes offered at the gym or do at-home core and calisthenics workouts to supplement their training, having a good quality yoga mat makes those workouts more enjoyable. Using mats provided by the gym or a workout studio are often worn down and lower quality. Additionally, having a yoga mat is great because they can take it on outdoor climbing trips or when traveling!
Hopefully, these gift ideas are helpful, and you know the perfect Valentine’s Day gift to get for your special person this Valentine’s Day. Maybe even pick two or three smaller gifts from the list and put them in a basket to make the ultimate gift (i.e., beanie, water bottle, Shoe odor absorbers). Let us know if you end up buying one or more items from the list or if you have any other ultimate V-day gift suggestions below!
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This myth has created a barrier for beginner climbers breaking into the sport. Understandably, many people don’t enjoy shoving their feet into a shoe that is too small.
Climbing in your climbing shoes is what makes them slightly stretch. Your foot heats up through use and makes the shoe more malleable, which is how climbing shoes mold to your specific foot. This small amount of malleability is what allows climbing shoes to stretch.
More modern shoes are made with synthetic, non-stretchy materials or have large amounts of rubber – these minimize stretching. Contrary to the past, getting the right fit the first time is essential.
Some shoes stretch more than others! The amount of stretching will depend on what materials are used in the shoe. A full synthetic upper will not stretch much, while a rubber upper will stretch a tiny amount. Think 1/8th of an inch all around.
Sizing your climbing shoes is like Goldilocks finding the perfect porridge. You don’t want them too tight where you can’t feel anything, but you don’t want them too loose, where your footwork feels sloppy.
Not all shoes are created equal; some shapes fit your foot better than others. For a beginner, finding a neutral, flat climbing shoe is recommended. Then, as you progress, you can look for moderate or downturned styles.
Climbing shoes aren’t made to walk around all day but to climb in. They’re supposed to fit tighter than a pair of hiking boots or dress shoes, but they don’t need to deform your feet every time you put them on.
You want a fit with the least dead space while still comfortable enough to move around. Your foot should meet the shoe on all sides of your foot, and your toes should be pressed against the front with your heel fitting snugly in the back. As mentioned above, not all shoes are created equal, so you may need to try on different brands and sizes until you’ve found your Goldilocks shoe.
Check out a gear store or your local climbing gym and try on as many pairs as possible. Remember that you’re looking for neutral, flat shoes. If you don’t have the option to try on shoes in person and must order online, consider ordering the size you think you are, then a half-size up and down. If you must do so, this will reduce the time it takes to exchange, and you can return the pairs that do not fit.
Climbing shoes should feel snug but not overtly painful. You should be able to stand in them without wincing. Try standing on your toes when you put on a new pair to judge for pain!
When your climbing shoes are adequately sized, you’ll feel when you’re standing on a foot chip or edge. A fit that is too tight won’t let you feel the holds you’re standing on, making you feel insecure while climbing.
The best way to break in climbing shoes is simply climbing in them. You can try some crazy online methods, such as using plastic bags over your feet or even showering in them. But the sure way to break in your climbing shoes is to wear them and go climbing.
Don’t forget to rest your feet, though. Like you take a break to relax your arms, do this with your feet. Take your shoes off and let them breathe after each boulder problem or route you climb.
Remember that not all climbing shoes are made equal. It may take three different brands or styles to find that Goldilocks fit. When you do, you’ll be surprised that you ever considered downsizing your shoes.
]]>In many ways, your climbing partner is like your romantic partner. You must trust your partner and communicate effectively to have a good relationship. There’s no better feeling than that consistent climbing partner who was always ready to go when you were. They have the snacks and the psyche that meshed well with yours, and you push each other to be better climbers.
Whether or not you have found your way into a belaytionship, here are some tips to help you find the climbing partner of your dreams.
What are you looking for in a climbing partner?
Start with being upfront when considering potential climbing partners. State what you’re looking for and what you enjoy being around. If you’re more of a quiet, down-to-earth climber who doesn’t care about what grades they climb, then you likely won’t last long climbing with people who are always trying to send their most challenging projects. The same goes for the projectors! If you’re looking to push yourself every time you climb, you may not enjoy it when your partner wants to take it easy on some 5.Fun.
Express what you like to do before you get out to the cliff and realize the projects are at one crag, but the moderates are at another, and you can’t agree on which one to hike to. (However, if you’re primarily gym climbing, this type of climbing partnership can work well because all the routes are in the same building).
Experience Level
Consider looking for somebody with a similar experience level as yourself. It’s fun to learn things together instead of feeling like you’re being mentored every time you go climbing. While you can learn a tremendous amount from a mentor, maybe that’s not your preferred partner style.
On the other hand, if you’re looking for a mentor, this can be a perfect way to find a trustworthy climbing partner when first starting out. Somebody with more knowledge than you will help you excel quicker and inform you of the best safety practices than somebody utterly new to climbing.
If you’re incredibly picky about sharing beta, you may want a climbing partner with a similar build. A 6’2 climber will have much different beta than a 5’4 climber. You may be able to trade some beta, but the height difference will likely cause a barrier to this.
“How do I know they’ll be trustworthy?”
Finding a trustworthy climbing partner is the same as finding trustworthy people anywhere: you give them a chance to be trustworthy. You can ask potential partners specific questions to determine if you’ll mesh. Do they believe using an assisted breaking device means leaving their brake hand off the rope is okay? Do they think climbing with a helmet is unnecessary? You can find out a lot about a climber by their responses to questions regarding safety. If their answers don’t align with yours, maybe it’s not meant to be!
“Where do I find climbing partners?”
There are plenty of places to find climbing partners! A great way to find a climbing partner is by visiting a climbing gym and getting to know the people there. During this, look for somebody who fits your style and availability.
Another way to find climbing partners is online! You can look for groups on Facebook, Reddit, or you can comment on routes/areas on Mountain Project and say that you’re looking for somebody to try it with!
(Obvious disclaimer: Always be cautious when meeting people online)
Use your best judgment when deciding on potential climbing partners. If they flake on you several times just as you were supposed to meet up, consider looking for a more reliable partner. Finding somebody with a similar schedule to you can also be a dealbreaker. If you work mornings and they work nights, you’ll only get to climb together on your off days (if they line up).
If your first few potential partners don’t work out, don’t give up! Plenty of climbers are out there; it may just take some time to find the right one for you.
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Making gains in the gym is fantastic! It makes all the long training sessions and unsuccessful climbing attempts worth it and leaves you hungry for more. But then, amid all your training plans, you have to travel. Whether for work, family events, vacation, or other obligations, traveling will take you away from the rock climbing gym, and the fear of losing those hard-fought gains might creep up.
The good news is that traveling is that, for the most part, those fears are unfounded. If you’ve been training hard or climbing consistently, the rest will benefit your climbing in the long run, and after a few climbing sessions back in the gym, post-trip, you’ll feel right back to your pre-travel self. You may even feel stronger as you’ve allowed your body to recover from the compounded systemic fatigue resulting from consistent training.
However, it’s also hard to go from working out consistently to nothing. Travel anxieties may creep in, and you find yourself itching to train. The good news is there are plenty of ways to train for climbing while traveling that don’t require a rock climbing wall or even a portable hangboard! Depending on your accommodations, travel plans, and comfort level, we’ve curated a training guide to help you maintain those gains and overall fitness while traveling. Remember that if the content of your travels already involves increased physical activity, then be mindful of adding climbing training on top, as the added fatigue it will bring may do more harm than good. Or, in other words, when you feel tired, rest!
How to Train for Climbing While Traveling
There are two main ways to best train for climbing while traveling. Try to incorporate both for a well-rounded program. The first is dependent upon access to a portable hangboard, sturdy door frame, or any edge from which it is safe for you to hang. If you don’t have access to these, no worries. Focus on the second training method; you’ll benefit from maintaining your climbing strength.
Note: The only caveat is that if you travel for 2+ weeks, we suggest investing in a portable mini longboard or block. Without loading your fingers for two weeks, you will likely notice the effects upon returning to the gym for the first week or two. While the finger strength will return quickly, the portable hangboard will help minimize that reconditioning period upon return.
Training Method #1 - Finger Training
Tools Needed: Portable Hangboard (i.e., Tension Block, Frictious Block, Metollius, White Oak, etc.) or a stable edge (i.e., of a doorway).
When:
Anytime you are sitting or have a hands-free moment, pull out the portable hangboard and pull on it, creating tension with your foot pushing against the cord for hanging.
Or, if you have 20-30 minutes and a doorframe, you can complete this workout.
How:
Start with warmup pulls or hangs, easing into more intense effort. Hang/pull for 5-10 seconds until your tendons feel warmed. Then, choose one of two exercises: max effort pulls or repeaters. Repeaters will target the power endurance in your tendons, and max effort pulls will target your overall pulling force.
Repeaters:
Pull or hand for 5-7 seconds, rest for 3, and repeat for 3-5 minutes or until fatigued.
Rest for the same amount of time you pulled/hung for, then repeat for 3 to 5 rounds.
Max Effort Pulls:
Pull as hard as you can or hang with as much force as possible in your fingers (adjust the weight by keeping your feet on the ground).
Work for 5 seconds, then rest and do the other hand (if doing one hand at a time).
Complete for 4-10 sets, with 2-3 minutes rest between. During your rest period, jump to training method #2 to maximize your time while traveling.
Training Method #2 - Calisthenics Training
Tools Needed: Access to YouTube and enough space to comfortably perform exercises lying on the floor or moving between standing and sitting.
When: Every other day if possible. Either during the rest period of the finger regime or as a stand-alone.
How:
Calisthenics training is a useful option for traveling and maintaining strength because the movements are body-weight based, just like climbing, and are simple yet effective for targeting strength, power, and body tension.
The easiest way to knock out a calisthenics workout is to open YouTube and search “calisthenics workouts for climbers.” Search the results for a video that fits your available time and desired intensity. You could also search “yoga for climbers” or “yoga for strength.” Many search results are excellent for supplementing climbing training and perfect for doing while on the road.
Aim for a workout targeting critical climbing muscle groups: shoulders, triceps, core, hip flexors, back, delts, and chest. Or, target one area at higher intensity one day while traveling and another the next.
If you prefer to construct your workouts, choose a handful of exercises from the list below and perform 8-12 reps each in a circuit format. Do 3-5 rounds of the circuit.
Exercise List:
Handstand holds against a wall (go for 30 - 60 seconds)
Archer pushups
Planche pushups
Hollow-holds
Leg Raises
Star Planks
Pike pushups
Elbow plank
Cross-body mountain climbers
L-sits
Superman holds/lifts
Reverse Plank
Side Plank with Hip Dips
Diamond Push-ups
Training for climbing while traveling comes down to being consistent and intentional. It can take less than 20 minutes, and you only need yourself! Customizing the training plan to your schedule, fitness level, and comfort can be as simple as training in the gym. Hopefully, this helps ease any anxieties and gives you confidence to maintain your gains and fitness over your gym hiatus. Let us know if you have any other questions, comments, or suggestions below!
]]>Are you looking to plan an outdoor climbing trip but don’t know where to go? Look no further. The United States offers some of the best climbing crags for bouldering, sport, trad, deep water soloing, and more. But with so many great options, how does one choose where to go? To help make the decision easier, we’ve broken down some of the best and most well-loved crags by region and have highlighted the climbing styles they offer and fun, extra tidbits where applicable.
The regional breakdown will allow you to see what fantastic options are within driving distance or those you may want to book a flight and take a week off work to visit.
1. Northeast
Rumney, NH: Primarily known for its sport climbing scene, Rumney also offers a selection of bouldering and ice climbing. It is excellent for all levels of climbers, with sports routes ranging from 5.3 to 5.15. Unlike much of New Hampshire, where you’ll find granite rock, Rumeny cliffs are schist, a metamorphic, grainy rock.
Shawagunks, NY: The Shawagunks (Gunks for short) are just two hours north of NYC. Solid quartz conglomerate awaits climbers interested in bouldering and multi-pitch/trad. If you're a sports climber, it is worth noting that there are only a few bolted routes.
Acadia National Park, ME: Breath-taking views await you in Acadia as you climb coarse-grained pink granite. Due to its coastal and northerly location, consider planning to climb here in the summer (May through September). The island hosts many boulders, top-ropes, sea cliff climbing, and trad climbing on short multi-pitch routes.
2. Southeast
New River Gorge, WV: Just five hours by car from Washington, D.C., the new is one of the premier sport climbing and bouldering destinations on the East Coast. While it is home to some trad routes, there are endless bolted and developed routes at many cliffs for you to put your hands on, as well as hidden gems of boulders. Are you looking to get those hard sends in? Head to Narcissus Cave, the Cirque, or the Coliseum for an epic selection of 4-star, perma-drawed 5.12s, 13s. And 14s.
Red River Gorge, KY: Arguably the New River Gorge’s Rival among East Coast climbers, the Red River Gorge is a sandstone mecca for sport climbing. While the New River Gorge has a reputation for stiff grading or sand-bagging, the Red River Gorge grades are known to be much friendlier. Get ready for a pump-fest, as it’s known for its long, steep routes with good holds.
Chattanooga, TN: Quite possibly the highest concentration of high-quality bouldering you’ll find anywhere. Located on a golf course, the bouldering is accessible, jam-packed, and friendly to all levels of climbers. Some even say climbing at Chatt (the nickname for the area) is as close as you’ll get to outdoor gym-style climbing.
3. South
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, AK: Unlike some of the other crags we’ve listed, you do have to pay $11 per day to climb, but for the price, you’ll get access to 400+ bolted sport climbing routes on sandstone ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. There are also some fun boulders and a handful of trad routes to check out if that’s your jam.
Hueco Tanks, TX: Calling all boulders! Look no further than Hueco Tanks for some of the best bouldering in the United States. It is in Texas, so the ideal time to climb is late fall, winter, or early spring. Entrance to the area is regulated, with the North bouldering site requiring ahead-of-time reservations and the other areas requiring an accompanying guide. So, make sure you plan if you plan to head out to Hueco!
4. Central
Wild Iris, WY: Wild Iris is located in Lander, Wyoming, and is excellent for sport climbers looking for a summer crag. There are 300+ sport routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.14c, with the highest concentration of routes in the moderate grade range (5.10s -5 .11s).
City of Rocks, ID: A three-hour drive from Salt Lake City, Utah, lands you in rural Idaho’s mecca of climbing, City of Rocks. If you like options, this place has 1,000 plus fine-grain granite routes (a mix of sport and trad) and easily accessible boulders for days. The best seasons to visit are spring and fall, but the area is still climbable in the summer.
5. Northwest
Smith Rock, OR: Be prepared to climb on rock unlike any you’ve touched. Smith Rock is welded tuff, and ancient volcano ash is formed into solid rock under intense heat and pressure. It’s easiest to reach from Bend, Oregon, or Portland. The main climbing area is mostly sport climbing, but a nearby basalt crag houses trad routes.
Leavenworth, WA: The quaint Bavarian town of Leavenworth is located in the northern Cascade Mountains. A variety of canyons nearby boast some of the highest quality boulders in the country with breathtaking views to match. Be sure to expect short but brutally steep approaches, but we promise it’s worth it!
6. Southwest
Joshua Tree, CA: You can’t name a better one-stop shop than Joshua Tree, with 8,000 routes, 2,000 boulders, and terrain including slab, crack, and steep climbing. Bouldering appears frequently on pro-climbers' social media pages, but there are also many sport and trad routes to try out. If high-lining is also your thing, it’s allowed and popular in Joshua Tree!
Moab, UT: If you’re interested in climbing in Utah, there are many great places to check out. We could write a whole article on Utah alone. However, Moab is unique due to the red rock sandstone that sports many special features, making the climbing fun and engaging. The trad climbing in Moab is the most famous, but there is plenty of high-quality sport climbing.
7. West
Yosemite National Park, CA: The holy land of climbing in the United States, you’ll want to take a climbing trip here at some point. It is known for its free-climbing and big wall trad climbs but has a plethora of boulders, alpine, and aid climbing for those who enjoy that too! If you plan to camp at one of the campsites within the National Park, make reservations months in advance as it has become popular.
Rifle Canyon, CO: If you’re looking for a high concentration of moderate-hard (5.11-5.14) climbing, Rifle Canyon should be your next stop. It is a must for sport climbers looking to try hard on gorgeous limestone. The busiest months are May - September, with very few climbers visiting in the winter and a few venturing out in late fall or early spring.
Visiting as many of the United States' climbing spots as possible is well worth it. We hope these quick overviews, broken down by region, help you decide where your next climbing trip should take you! Of course, the U.S. has many more climbing areas, but these are all recognized globally. If we missed any notable others or you have any comments or questions, please drop them below! We’d love to hear your thoughts and what your favorite climbing crag(s) is/are if you have one!
]]>You worked hard figuring out the beta, memorizing the movement, and finally felt like you could send your project. But, oh no! The climbing gym reset your project!
What now? Are you sad you didn't get to put all that effort into achieving your goal? Whatever you feel, the wrong thing to do is to take it out on the route setters. They're simply doing their job of keeping the gym updated with fresh sets.
It's okay to be upset that your project got reset. Instead of focusing on it, consider why you're upset and how you can move forward.
Too many climbers place their self-worth on what they achieve on the climbing wall. Remember the reason you started climbing in the first place. Sure, part of it may be the feeling of sending, but sending isn't the only part of climbing. It's actually a tiny part of it.
If you're feeling down, look around the gym for a newer climber or young kid simply enjoying themselves. They're not focused on only sending the climb; they're just there to have fun!
Reaching the finish is just the cherry on top.
As you know, projecting is mostly failing. If we solely focus on sending, we'll have a tough time. You must be okay with failure to want to keep climbing. Why else would you subject yourself to suffering so much by projecting? You could climb all day below your limit and never fail, but you like challenging yourself!
Find the small victories in your project and celebrate them as they come. Unlocking a new beta sequence that got you even one move further is a victory to celebrate! By rewarding yourself and recognizing your small accomplishments, you realize that even though your project got reset, you learned more about yourself and your climbing abilities.
Now that your project is gone, you can reflect on everything you learned when trying to send it. Did you realize that you need more endurance? Or that you need more flexibility? Maybe you need more shoulder strength?
Reflect on where your most significant weakness was when climbing your project and channel your energy into improving that area. As we discussed, climbing is mostly failing. Rather than focusing on what didn't work, prepare for your next project by focusing on ways to improve your climbing.
It's time to find a new project! This is an exciting time! You get to put into practice everything you learned from your old project. Sure, you may find something in a different style than your previous one, but the skills you learned about yourself are transferable to all climbing.
Putting your self-worth into what you achieve on the climbing wall can leave you disappointed or insecure. Focusing your energy on a project is a great way to challenge yourself, but don't let it control your emotions. If you're feeling down about not sending, remember why you started climbing in the first place.
Projecting is mostly failing; that's why it feels so good when you finally send! The climbing gym reset your project, but they didn't reset your abilities. Use this time to work on weaknesses you found or put your energy into a new project. But remember that climbing is supposed to be fun!
]]>Below is a list of climber personalities. After you identify where you fall, see the suggestions on the replacement timeline for your climbing shoes.
1. The Interventionist - Resole don't Replace
So you're an interventionist. You don't need the satisfaction and excitement of purchasing a new pair of climbing shoes. After each climbing session, you check the soles of your climbing shoes. If they show signs of thinning rubber but no holes, you'll intervene before catastrophe strikes (aka a hole forms). Instead, you box them up and send them off for resoling. This option saves you a solid chunk of change but requires rentals or a pair of backup shoes while your favorite team is off getting a makeover.
If you've never been an interventionist but want to start, it only works before the rubber completely wears through. A good time for resoling is when you begin to see the toe-box rubber peeling so that you can see two layers of rubber. In this condition, the re-soler has enough shoes to work with for an adequate patch-up job.
2. The Shoe Shuffler - Buy, Rotate, Buy, Rotate
The shoe shuffler. This climber is okay with spending money on new climbing shoes more frequently than their fellow climbers. Before rendering it unusable, they'll mark a pair as outdoor or competition climbing shoes. Then, they'll purchase new ones (look out for those deals) and wear the new shoes for most of their training. Over time they'll accumulate enough shoes in decent condition to rotate through the pairs, thus elongating each shoe's life.
The climber's goals dictate when to move a pair of shoes into a specific use category. If they move the shoe to the 'competition only' category, the rock climbing shoes likely have all rubber intact but have been broken in. If the climbing shoes get shuffled to the outdoor climbing category, they may have moderate wear but enough rubber so as not to slip off holds. These shoes might be an unpreferred pair as they will likely become dirty outdoors.
3. The Grave Digger - The shoes will live a complete life.
The gravedigger is a simplistic climber. They've accepted that unless they have angelic footwork, they'll blow through the shoe's rubber or laces at some point. But until that day comes, they will stay true to one pair of shoes. Only after their friends and other climbers comment on the sorry state of their climbing shoes, or they can see multiple toes poking out, will they toss them and purchase a brand new pair.
4. The Practical - Buy, Use, Bye
The practical is similar to the grave digger but, as their title implies, more practical. They view climbing shoes without functioning rubber or broken laces/straps as not worth keeping. Rather than paying for multiple resoles for the same pair of shoes, they prefer to buy brand-new ones and not deal with the hassle of shipping them off and using different shoes in the interim. So, being the practical person they are, the shoes get thrown away once the toe rubber splits or the velcro breaks. No one will necessarily comment on the decrepit shoes because the wear isn't as extreme as the grave digger. Still, the shoe's owner will notice the shoe's performance decrease, such as repeated foothold slips.
Nothing regarding rock climbing shoes is as straightforward as it seems. But we hope this breakdown of climber personalities helps identify when you may want to consider buying new shoes. If you fall under multiple personas, you have options on when to buy new climbing shoes, all of which can be the right choice! If there are any unanswered questions or comments you would like to share, please drop them below! We value your feedback and thoughts and would love to hear from you!
]]>Is rock climbing a good workout? Let’s play a game to find out. Use “Cntrl (or Cmd) + F” and type in a body part.
Your task is to name a body part, and our task is to tell you how you use it in your climbing. Name any body part (well, almost any - don’t get too weird or crazy here), and we are confident we can explain how you will engage it while climbing.
The common misconception is that rock climbing is all arms. Upper body strength comes with the territory, but it isn’t the end all be all. Instead, balanced, full-body muscle will get you a lot further than big biceps and lats ever will.
Ready, set, go!
Rock Climbing: A Full Body Workout
Here is a list of the major muscles, or muscle groups, you will work (some without even realizing it) while climbing. If anyone ever dares to tell you that climbing isn’t a good workout, send them the link to this blog, and they’ll be proven otherwise.
● Biceps: This is a visible muscle when worked. Think of pulling up into a 90-degree angle over and over again. Many climbing moves require using the biceps to move from one hold to the next.
● Triceps: Likely apparent, the triceps are notably engaged when pulling hard off a hold out to your side. These moves are typically called gastons.
● Back: Another visibly worked-out muscle group. Your back muscles, including the trapezius, rhomboids, and lats, are used every time you advance up the climbing wall. Whether you feel them engage, repetitive pulling movements engage your back muscles simply due to anatomy.
● Shoulders/Chest: Sometimes, you will encounter compression movements in climbing. These require conditioned shoulders and chest to maintain contact with the wall. Other moves, such as mantles, force you to push your weight up and over your wrists. This movement taxes the shoulders and almost every other muscle in your body! Don’t believe us; find a mantle move and try it.
● Forearms/Extensors: Say one thing about rock climbers - they can grip. To grip, in general, requires the engagement of the forearm and extensors. If you want to maintain a firm grip for an extended period, you’ll need to train these muscles specifically in addition to their activation while climbing.
● Wrists: Connected to your forearms and extensors, the wrist muscles are taxed on slopers, pinches, mantles, and really through any movement loading your tendons. After all, everything is connected.
● Quads: Now, here’s where things get fun. Rock climbing is great for working out your legs as well. If you aren’t engaging your leg muscles with climbing, shifting your center of gravity and resting is more taxing, and your forearms will tire out quickly. A great example of quad activation is standing off of climbing hold on one leg. This movement is almost identical to a pistol squat, and if you’ve ever done one of those, you’ll know the quad burn we’re referencing.
● Hamstrings: Every rock climber loves a good ol’ heel hook. But to use a heel hook effectively and to advance your progression up the wall requires strong hamstrings. Resting your heel on hold is one thing, but pulling with the hamstrings to create tension through that heel is a game changer.
● Calves: If you haven’t heard anyone compare climbing shoes to point shoes, those people aren’t far off in their comparison. The tight fight and pointed-toe boxes enable you to place much pressure on your toes while climbing. If you’ve ever tried walking tip-toe, you’ll know how much of a calf workout you’ll get. If not, head to the climbing gym to experience it for yourself.
● Core: Strong abdominal muscles are essential for daily life. You also work them out even harder while climbing. Climbing movements heavily depend on body tension and keeping your hips close to the wall, both of which require a solid core.
● Brain: the hidden workout. (Yes, we know it’s an organ, not a muscle.) Rock climbing is a giant puzzle. For each climb, you must figure out how to get to the top of the wall. If you fall, you must figure out what went wrong and how to avoid falling next time. The sport gets you thinking and adds a cognitive workload involving problem-solving, patience, and concentration.
There it is - the complete workout. If you believe rock climbing qualifies as a full-body workout, we hope this proves you wrong. Of course, we left out many smaller muscles and anatomical components that are stressed when you go climbing, but we hopefully hit on the biggies. If you have any questions, comments, or tips for other climbers or us, comment below! We’d love to hear from you!
]]>Good climbing photos take a lot of work to capture. If you decided to whip out your phone or camera to take a few shots of your friend you brought climbing for the first time, chances are it’s a “bum shot” from below while they are halfway up the ground on the top rope or the bouldering wall. It’s a classic climbing shot that probably got sent in the group chat afterward. And let’s be honest; it’s not that great of a photo. So what do professional photographers do to get sick climbing photos? Here are a few tips and tricks to level up your climbing photography.
When climbing, you are constantly moving through a pattern of static and dynamic positions. Regarding climbing photography, the best shots will be the dynamic shots, as your climber moves from one hold to the next. This way, you can capture the unique positions of the climber in the middle of a dynamic move, such as a dyno or challenging deadpoint. You can capture static positions of a climber all day since they will spend more time on the wall in a static position than a dynamic position (except speed climbers). But a climber hanging onto a hold, eyeing up the next one, or a climber resting on a jug usually doesn’t capture the intensity of climbing.
Capturing action shots in climbing is challenging because the dynamic movements are over quickly. As a climbing photographer, you must always be ready to shoot! When shooting action shots, it’s essential to take multiple photos of the entire dynamic movement (including the wind-up) in a row. If you only take one, the chances of the photo turning out how you want it are low. If you take multiple, you have a handful of photos to pick and choose the best.
Another tip for climbing photography is to capture the climber’s face. A photo becomes more personal if you clearly see the subject’s face. Climbers have their personality and intensity written all over their faces in the moment of a complicated move, and capturing how they feel, whether it’s a gritty, try-hard expression, or a slight smile of sticking a move, is priceless.
It can be tricky to capture the climber’s face since they will look in all directions while climbing, spotting hand and foot holds. As a photographer, it can be beneficial to read the beta of the climb before setting up in a random spot. Be intentional with the perch you choose, and be dynamic too. Move around the climb (if you can) to capture the best shots throughout the whole climb.
Last, don’t stop shooting once the climbing is over. If your climber tops the climb, you will want to capture that person’s celebration and excitement after they top out or clip the anchors. After completing a climb, the celebration makes for some of the best climbing shots. Even if your climber falls before the top, capture their expressions of frustration, disappointment, or exhaustion to capture the entire journey. Climbing is mostly falling, so witnessing the hard parts and the negative emotions that come with it is important for the climber and the climbing community to understand.
]]>Have you ever tried climbing in sneakers or any non-climbing shoes? If you have, you know the struggle of getting your feet to stay on any climbing hold smaller than a jug (a large hold you can grab with your entire hand). Every time you place your foot, it's a hail-mary prayer that your shoe won't slip, sending you crashing onto the bouldering pads or falling into the rope.
The next step is rental shoes. Rental shoes are usually accessible at no or minimal cost after you pay for a day pass or membership to the climbing gym. While any pro climber will scorn the thought of using rental climbing shoes, they are an upgrade from regular sneakers.
However, rental shoes will only get you so far with climbing. Their design needs to consider performance. Instead, it prioritizes comfort for the climber and durability so that climbing gyms can replace them infrequently. Don't get us wrong. They are great to wear when first trying out climbing or just getting into the sport. But, when you decide you are ready to commit to climbing regularly, you should bite the bullet and invest in a personal pair of climbing shoes.
Rental shoes are flat with thick rubber soles and a "one-shape-fits-all-feet" design. However, if you go and pick out your pair of climbing shoes, you can try on various brands and pick the one that fits your foot snuggly. The climbing shoes you'll look to buy will have higher quality rubber and give you an edge in your performance. Gone are the days of not trusting small footholds and second-guessing standing on your feet. With your climbing shoes appropriately fitted, you will feel more secure on smaller footholds and more confident in your climbing.
As an adult, biting the bullet and buying climbing shoes can be daunting. The price of climbing shoes can be pretty hefty, although you can find great entry-level and neutral shoes for more affordable prices. For your first pair of climbing shoes, consider neutrals or moderates, which are usually cheaper than aggressive shoes. “Neutral” and “moderate” refer to the shape and make of the shoe. These shoes are generally flatter and have fewer features, making them comfier for all-day use, optimal for beginners, and cheaper.
Additionally, don't feel pressured to buy the most expensive climbing shoe. Depending on what shoe fits your foot best, search for good deals online or see if your local climbing gym offers retail discounts. But your feet have likely stopped growing, and the only reason you will have to buy a new pair is if the rubber wears down.
Hesitations may arise if you consider purchasing a pair of climbing shoes for your child. Since their feet are growing, they may need new shoes more frequently. Consider it an investment in your child's athletic career. If your child is serious about climbing, then having their shoes will only benefit their growth in progress. You can always buy slightly used shoes at places like REI outlets or ask if anyone has a pair of old shoes in decent condition. Climbing shoes are equivalent to cleats or spikes in any other sport, so it's more or less of a necessary investment.
The most significant indicator it's time to ditch the rental shoes and upgrade to your pair is when you want to take climbing seriously. No climber has ever said, "I regret buying my climbing shoes." (If you find someone who says that, please let us know. We'd love to meet this arguably crazy person.)
If you find yourself going to the climbing gym regularly, even once per week, it’s time to invest in your own climbing shoes. It will help you improve faster, and your feet will thank you for it!
Hopefully, this clarifies when you should consider buying your first pair of climbing shoes or help nudge you to bite that bullet if you've been contemplating it for a while. If you did get a pair, let us know in the comments below what brand/style you bought!
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Resoling climbing shoes is replacing the outer layer of rubber on your shoes after they have been worn down through use. Resoling is often cheaper than buying a new pair of shoes, but is it right for you? Consider this.
Ah, another afternoon of your favorite (and by far most excellent) pastime–climbing! You tie up your favorite pair of climbing shoes. They've finally molded to your feet just right. You know their edges like the back of your hand and trust their feel on even the slipperiest moves. You approach your next route, place your hands, and then look at your feet. But, just as you lift your first foot, you notice something weird. Yeah, just there, at the tip of your left shoe. No! It can't be! Is that a hole?!?
We've all been there–the terrifying, heartbreaking moment you notice the damage on your best climbing shoes. Sometimes this realization comes as no surprise, but even the most diligent climbers can find themselves suddenly looking down at a toe starting to emerge from a well-loved pair. Losing a good set of shoes to damage can be tragic, but it doesn't always have to be! Learning more about the unique process of resoling climbing shoes, as well as the best times and options for resoling, can help you get the very most life out of your best shoes.
Before we talk about anything else, let's walk through some parts of the climbing shoe. Grab your pair and look as we identify the rand and sole.
The sole of the shoe runs along the very bottom. It's the outermost layer of rubber. Beneath this outer layer is another, thinner layer of rubber. That is the rand! On almost all climbing shoes, you can identify the place where the sole connects over the rand by looking for a seam-like line that runs along the outline of your shoe. This seam is where the two layers overlap and seal together.
Knowing where the sole stops and the rand begins is crucial to understanding when you should resole your shoes.
Now that we know what to look for, let's talk about the damage and what different amounts of wear mean for resoling. As you climb, the sole of your shoes will start to thin. Depending on your tendencies as a climber, certain areas of the sole may begin to wear thinner before others. Sometimes parts of the rand will even wear before the sole.
If your shoes have only begun to wear down in spots and you know you're not close to wearing into the rand, you don't need a resole quite yet. However, if you're easily able to tell where amounts of sole have worn away, you're getting close to wearing through the sole into the rand, or you're starting to wear the rand in any area, it's prime time to get a resole.
If you have significant damage through the sole and rand to the point you can see the material of the shoe itself, it's a more challenging call. You may be able to get the shoe repaired, but it becomes much more complex and more expensive. Once the rand is worn down to the shoe material, a resolver will have to replace the rand and sole and repair the shoe completely. These repairs can affect the shoe's structure, fit, and function. Such an intense repair is only sometimes possible, meaning a resoler may get it and not be able to help you.
The earlier you address the damage, the easiest and, usually cheaper, it is to go through the resoling process. Resoling earlier also means you'll be more likely to be able to resole more times. Every shoe and resoler is different, so you'll get no guaranteed number of resoles out of any pair. But, with the proper care, your shoes can last through a handful of resoles before retirement.
There are a few options for resoling, though these options will vary based on your resoler and the damage to your shoes. Typically, your options will be a full or half resole. A full resole is where the entire layer of sole rubber is removed, and a new layer is cut and fitted. Half resoles only remove the front portion of the rubber. If you have damage to multiple areas of the sole, you'll need a full resole. But if the damage is just to the front, a half resole does the job!
If you have any damage past the sole and into the rand or structure of your shoe, you'll need some additional repairs. We already touched on the difficulties of repairing a damaged shoe, but restoring a damaged rand is more straightforward. However, it's usually an extra fee. Rand repair is similar to a resole in that the sole is removed, then the damaged portion of the rand. Once the rand is repaired, the shoe can be resoled and sent back!
Ultimately, resoling can help you reduce waste, save money, and keep that pair of shoes that fits perfectly. Getting your shoes resoled routinely and at a point of minimum damage can be a much cheaper option than buying a brand-new pair, but waiting until intense repairs are needed can make it almost as expensive as a new pair. Finally, keep in mind the timeline of resoling–you may need another pair to climb in for a few weeks, or even months, while you wait.
]]>Limit bouldering is almost as simple as the name sounds. You'll pick five boulders for this workout at your maximum limit. To clarify, this should be harder than your onsight (or the level of difficulty you can complete on the first try) grade but a climb that you think you may be able to do if you give it your max effort and maybe a few goes.
Once you have your five boulders, you will need a stopwatch. Then begin the workout adhering to the following guidelines. For each boulder, you'll give three maximum effort attempts resting 3-5 minutes between attempts. Your rest should be long enough to feel like you have enough energy to provide maximum effort on your next go.
Another workout that almost explains itself in the name. This workout focuses on increasing your endurance. You'll use a spray wall, system board, or bouldering wall to complete 1,000 moves. There are no specifications on the types of holds you can use, but the more variety, the better. However, remember that you are going for 1,000 moves so be bold and throw in a solid amount of good holds.
You don't have to complete the 1,000 moves in one set. Break into as many sets as needed and, of course, scale the number of moves down if 1,000 is not attainable at your current fitness level. You can always start with 500 and increase by 50-100 moves every week.
4x4s. You may hate us for this one after you do it once, but trust us that it will bring you excellent power endurance gains. For this workout, pick four boulder problems at your onsight grade (you may need to drop a grade for the last set or two, but try to do them all at onsight). Also, make sure you have a timer on hand. Once the timer is acquired and boulders selected, you can begin the workout.
Start with one boulder, start the timer, and climb the boulder four times in four minutes. Then rest for four minutes. Move to the next boulder and repeat. Do the same for boulders three and four as well. Drop a grade if you repeatedly fail to make it three-quarters or more of the way up any of the boulders. It should be challenging, but you want to climb most of the boulder for an effective power endurance workout. And know there's no shame in dropping a grade or two! As you get stronger, you'll be able to do them all at your onsight!
Hopefully, these three workouts provide you with a well-rounded basis to train as an intermediate climber. As always, modify as necessary to do what works for your body. However, feel free to push yourself outside your comfort zone, as that is where the real growth happens.
Let us know in the comments below which workout(s) you tried, and happy sending!
In the boulder event, climbers attempt multiple routes, each of which they have five minutes to complete. Climbers can try each boulder problem as many times as they want in the five minutes, but their goal is to complete as many as possible in the least attempts. Because it is a timed event and every climber doesn't always reach the top of every problem, there are a few more scoring particulars for bouldering. The number of tops (topping out of completing a bouldering problem), attempts, and zones (reaching certain areas on the route, gaining partial credit) together make up the final scores in the Olympic bouldering competition.
Lead climbing requires a distinct level of mental and physical strength, making it an extra challenging area and an additional thrilling event to watch. In lead climbing, climbers attempt a lead route they've never seen before. Before any climbing, the entire group of competitors is given six minutes to see and study the route. Then, all climbers are isolated until attempting the route one at a time. They have six minutes to get as high as possible, with their goal being completion and control. Each hold on the route is given a point score unknown to the climbers, and competitors gain points for each hold they can successfully control. The climber who reaches the highest point and has the most controlled holds takes gold! Unlike the other events, climbers only get one attempt on the lead route.
While there are many varying opinions within the climbing world on the inclusion and structure of climbing in the Olympics, it's hard to deny that the 2020 competition was an exhilarating feat. As the Paris 2024 games approach, check out climbing competitions to learn more about what competitive climbing can include and how it varies! You can even compare routes at your gym to competition routes and challenge yourself in time and attempt-based challenges!
Chaos breaks out around you as you triple-check harnesses and remind a dozen swarming children that everyone gets a turn– no repeats until everyone else has gone! The first few kids fly up the wall. Eager repeat faces want to tie in for the second time, but you notice a kid in the back who hasn't gone yet. You ask them if they'd like a turn, and though they show interest, you can tell it will take a little extra encouragement!
One of the first lessons climbing teaches kids is responsibility–especially regarding safety. Lessons on tying in, gym etiquette, belay partner safety checks, and redundancy in climbing are all chances for kids to learn how to keep themselves and other climbers safe. Beyond this, climbing teaches us that we are each responsible for maintaining a safe climbing environment for everyone.
You explain to the nervous kid how to check that their harness is secure and their knot is correct. They point to their gear and repeat back the double checks. They feel more comfortable, more in control, and are learning rad skills! Now, you explain, all there is left to do is.
Climbing requires you to trust your knowledge, gear, and others. Establishing a bond with your belay partner requires crazy levels of trust. That can be incredibly powerful with kids! As a child's trust in their belayer grows, they'll feel more and more able to try new things.
Climbing also teaches lessons of self-trust. No matter why a child is nervous about climbing, the experience of getting on the wall and overcoming that fear helps show them just how capable they are. Experiencing these lessons in such exciting and encouraging environments helps kids build confidence that extends far past the wall.
The kid checks their knot once as you take up the slack. You give them an encouraging nod before they reach for their first hold, and then they're off! They pull themselves up the first hold, the second, third! They look down to shout how exciting it is but, oh! It's a rookie move! They're looking down and suddenly not so sure they can keep going. You turn to the kids watching and ask if they can help encourage their friends!
Climbing is so full of team building skills that many team building programs and courses utilize climbing activities and skills! Climbing promotes problem-solving and collaboration between partners and group members– for example, if no one else can go until this climber makes it, how do we help them succeed? Climbing in collaborative settings can offer social, emotional, and physical growth for climbers of all ages, especially kids. These settings emphasize the value and importance of every child as part of a group and the importance of each child supporting their peers. The challenges of climbing demand the growth of communication skills individually and within groups.
After an all-hands-on-deck pep talk, their friends down below start to shout beta– move your right foot up a little, now you can reach that hold! The climber follows their lead. With a few more moves, they triumphantly get to the top of the route and sail back to the ground! The kids celebrate their group's success and encourage friends who may have initially felt separate or scared.
Whether it's figuring out what hold comes next or needing a little group encouragement to keep moving, climbing is an activity that gets kids practicing active problem-solving skills in a fun way. It's a big deal for a kid to overcome a moment of fear with refocus and determination! Climbing helps kids grow these skills in all settings, not just at the gym. Climbing is also great for getting our brains to focus. This focus can be a positive experience for kids who struggle with maintaining attention or completing goals in other settings.
Finally, climbing offers individualized lessons of success and achievement for kids. While one child's goal might be to make it up every route, another might want to make it onto the wall! Setting goals, problem-solving when obstacles get in the way, and experiencing the personal empowerment of success against challenges can be revolutionary in kids' lives. In these lessons, kids learn to rely not only on the strength of their bodies but also on their minds! They learn to believe in themselves, trust their abilities, and never back down from a challenge.
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This film follows the first African American expedition to summit Denali, the highest peak in North America. Ascending almost 20,000 feet over multiple weeks, the team documents their experience as they climb. Each climber shares their background in the outdoors and what the journey means to them or as they or experience the beauty and brutality of such a mission.
The film addresses issues of racism, inequality, and inaccessibility within the outdoors and discusses what it means for the team to make such a trip. An American Ascent tackles what it will take to break down the barriers between so many individuals and the outdoors while displaying how life-changing the experience of nature can be.
To learn more about this expedition and how underrepresentation in the outdoors is being challenged, check out the book The Adventure Gap by James Edward Mills (a climber on the trip).
Valley Uprising tells the story of three generations of early Yosemite climbers starting in the 1950s and working up to today. The film shows off the first accents of some of the most prominent rock faces in the national park, with big climbing names like Warren Harding, Jim Bridwell, Tommy Caldwell, and Alex Honnold taking the stage.
As the history of Yosemite climbers is told, this movie highlights the cultural conflicts between climbers and non-climbers. With this history, Valley Uprising encourages consideration of how and why climbing exists the way it does today. It also reflects the lens climbing has been viewed through for so long and perhaps even leaves room for future adventurers to challenge just what it means to be a climber.
This documentary follows Lor Sabourin as they work through the most challenging multi-pitch of their career– a climb left unnamed, perhaps not unintentionally. Lor speaks on their experience as a trans climber both growing up and today and discusses issues of inclusivity and accessibility within the climbing world.
This film directly challenges how value has traditionally been defined in climbing. Lor asks the viewer to consider what is gained from being the first, best, or most challenging when that form of success is so short-lived. Instead of continuing to endure traditional expectations, Lor offers their alternative– one where health and community care are prioritized in climbing.
They/Them explores lessons of growth and compassion through Lor's journey of understanding vulnerability and the importance of self-care. But, more importantly, it sheds light on the changes future generations of climbers are making space for in the outdoors.
Suppose you're searching for something more eye-catching than your average climbing film. This one is for you. Cholitas is the story of five Bolivian indigenous women who aspire to climb the highest mountain in America. This group, all in their 40s and 50s, stands out in more than one way– they wear brightly colored traditional dresses as they summit. These climbers symbolize liberation and empowerment for all women who wish to challenge expectations, especially those who want to climb regardless of what rules they've been told.
As you hear each climber's story and know what mountaineering means to them, the importance and joy of this journey for the Cholita climbers grow clear. This movie won't just make you laugh and cry. It will challenge your assumptions, demand you pay attention, and help guide you to a better understanding of all that climbing can be.
If you're looking for a movie that will inspire you to keep going in the face of any odds, Touching the Void is the film for you. This docudrama is based on the book by Joe Simpson, documenting his and climbing partner Simon Yates' almost perilous descent of a 21,000-foot peak in the Peruvian Andes. After Simpson takes a terrible fall and breaks his leg, Yates is forced to cut the rope, killing Simpson but saving himself or letting them both die. Yates cuts the rope and returns to camp, thinking his friend is dead. Little does he know that Simpson is still alive and fighting for his life to make it back to camp before it's too late. An incident that sparked climbing-world-famous controversies for years to come, this story is packed with twists so insane you won't quite believe them until you remember it's real.
Let us know what you think in the comments below!
Once the week of the competition rolls around, it's time to simmer down the physicality of your training. Why? Because it takes a few weeks to get stronger from physical workouts. So there is no need to exhaust yourself with physically demanding activities one week out. These workouts will not help your climbing performance if executed within a week before the competition.
On top of that, climbing too hard or too much can fatigue you and leave you with a less-than-ideal amount of skin on your palms before the big day. Due to this, it's essential to make sure your climbing sessions don't exceed 1-1.5 hours 2-3 times in the week before the competition. That being said, there are still other ways you can continue to prepare.
Practicing technique drills is an excellent way to train the week before the competition. When practicing hip/footwork drills, you will climb on easier terrain, therefore not fatiguing your muscles excessively. Training techniques will also fine-tune your body movement on the wall for the competition.
Along with technique, mental training is very beneficial within a week of the competition. Dedicate a climbing session to mentality, and practice your on-the-wall breathing techniques and positive self-talk. In a competition, sending a climb on the first attempt is key to performing well. Practice sequencing climbs you haven't attempted yet in the gym, and imagine yourself topping it with perfect beta. Then climb it using that sequenced beta! If it doesn't work, don't hop immediately back on without another plan. Spend a few minutes visualizing a different sequence, and then try that one.
During the competition, it's essential to manage your time appropriately. If you go-go-go on some of the most challenging climbs right at the start, you might become flash-pumped and too exhausted to continue climbing to the best of your ability. Instead, make sure you rest 3-5 minutes in between your attempts at the most challenging boulders. It might feel like a long time, but you must pull your hardest every time. Make sure you have a time management plan before the competition starts.
Fueling your body correctly in the days leading up to the competition can make a massive difference in performance. During the competition, you will climb for multiple hours and try hard the entire time. That takes a lot of energy. Eating carbohydrates the night before and the morning of the competition will provide you with the fuel you need. That being said, carbohydrates are important, but make sure you eat a well-balanced meal, complete with healthy fats and protein.
Along with proper nutrition before the competition, making sure you have the right food during the competition is just as, if not more, important. Anything easy to digest (carbohydrates) like a fruit or granola bar will replenish your energy stores during the competition if it's longer than an hour.
When we sleep, our body is actively recovering from the day's stress, physically and mentally. Being adequately rested allows us to think with a clear head, which you'll need to figure out a spicy beta. Good sleep can make us feel stronger and climb with more energy, which is vital for a long climbing session. Getting enough quality sleep is important not just the night before the competition but 2-3 nights before too.
Thinking about what to bring might seem obvious, but there's more you need to bring than what you bring to a casual gym session. Shoes, a harness (if rope climbing), and chalk, but you already knew that. As mentioned above, having a snack if the competition runs longer than an hour is necessary to keep your energy levels high. Don't forget lots of water and a change of clothes if the competition gym is not local to where you live, and you don't want to drive home sweaty and chalky. Many gyms will have a post-competition celebration with food and drinks, so having a change of clothes for that can feel like a luxury.
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Climbing is scary—no ifs, ands, or buts about it. Yes, climbing is a high-risk sport. But is it the act of climbing that is scary? It certainly seems to be if you suffer from a fear of heights. But if you dig a little deeper into this statement, most people will find that no, climbing is not scary. Falling is scary.
You cannot climb without falling. It's part of the sport. Professional climbers will even admit that falling is 90% of climbing. Because how can you improve if you never lay a hand on something more challenging than your ability level? You can't.
Whether it is a ground fall every fall as a boulderer, an awkward whip on a lead route, or even a soft fall onto the rope while top roping, falling will always be associated with fear thanks to our good friend, gravity, the first question you need to ask yourself is, what exactly are you scared of?
It might feel challenging to pinpoint precisely what you're scared of, but spend some time thinking about it. Are you scared you will get hurt? Are you scared your climbing partner is not going to catch you? Are you scared of the gear failing? Or are you afraid of failing? Maybe you fear heights, so you start shaking uncontrollably every time you get 30 feet up on the wall? Whatever your reason is, try to recognize it and don't be afraid to admit it.
Once you identify the why, it's time to be realistic with yourself. For any of those roots of fear above, analyze the situation. If you're scared of getting hurt, determine the likelihood of that happening. If you know how to fall correctly and there are no dangerous obstacles in your falling zone, the chances of a severe injury are pretty low. Once fear has decided, it settles into our heads. It can sometimes be unclear whether you are experiencing rational or irrational fear. Being realistic with the danger level of your climbing can help clear the fog of irrational fear.
You might be able to recognize your fear as irrational, and it's the first step to overcome the fear of falling, but there's still a lot of work to do so that this irrational fear doesn't hold you back from your true potential. There are three things you can control to help curb your fear of falling.
First, and arguably most important, is practice. As with everything we do as humans, we can only improve by practicing. Practicing falling, yes, on purpose, can help you gain confidence in your falling techniques and desensitize you from the act of falling. Whether bouldering or lead climbing, start your practice with minor falls. Maybe you're only a few feet off the ground, or your body is below the last clip. Start small and, slowly but surely, practice bigger and bigger falls until your hips are above the previous clip and you're taking a sizable whip. The goal here is to find the edge of your comfort zone. And when you do, push that edge ever-so-slightly every time you climb.
Lack of confidence often results in an increased level of fear. If you pretend you're confident, you can convince yourself that you are optimistic, even if you don't feel that way. Picture yourself gliding up the wall, climbing fearlessly. Imagine you are sticking every move. The more confidence you have, the less likely your fear will start to take over.
Positivity is so crucial because fear can easily slip into a downward spiral. To avoid this, practice positive self-talk both off and on the wall. Tell yourself you are confident. Tell yourself you have nothing to be scared of. Imagine yourself climbing flawlessly. Surround yourself with climbing partners who feed you encouragement and positivity.
Positivity and confidence usually go hand in hand. If you are practicing confidence, you are also practicing positivity on the back burner. But if you consciously practice both, fear doesn't stand a chance!
Practicing all these tactics will go a long way in battling your fear of falling. But it's essential to remember that there's no such thing as getting rid of your fear forever. It's part of our instinctual nature to protect us from danger. Overcoming your fear of falling is about constantly managing your fear, keeping it realistic, and pushing the edge of your comfort zone. Fear is something you have the tools to control. It's just a matter of putting those tools to use.
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The pound:
The holy grail of my injury preventative finds is the daily 20-minute injury prevention exercises from Dr. Jared Vagy’s Climb Injury Free, which I’ve practiced religiously for years. Including a love-hate relationship with the wall posture stretch, this daily ordeal might be the primary reason I’m only 40% hunched 70% of the time. These exercises keep my tendons happy (using the Metolius Gripsaver for “finger expansion” antagonist stretching) and my spine lengthened (by dancing my arms around while lying on a foam roller). I am indebted to Climb Injury Free for my posture and prosperity.
Aside from Vagy’s injury preventative exercises, I am a long-time user of the rice bucket and a newly-converted patron of finger-exorcism stretches. My rice bucket drills include martial arts and Esther Smith-recommended exercises, commencing with supination and pronation rotations and concluding by squeezing two fistfuls of rice in a fighting stance. I keep my rice bucket in the garage so it’s warm and somewhat broken in prior to jabbing into it. As for my new find, I am thrilled to be practicing professional climber Akiyo Noguchi’s finger care routine, where she folds her fingers back, pulls and rotates each finger, and massages both the webbing between fingers and the palm between bones. I was frightened at first, thinking my fingers wouldn’t be dexterous nor brave enough to pull it off, but after a few months of performing these stretches post climbing session, my fingers have felt healthier, flexible, and near spanking new.
Most of my injury preventative measures are basic and focus on the areas that are most likely to get injured, which means I have to be aware of injuries that my armor-of-antagonism won’t shield. When projecting my recent send of Hold the Doors v11 (in Mt. Charleston, NV), I had to pull off a strenuous heel hook that was necessary for five continuous moves, which sent a rush of pain to the outer side of my knee. To avoid injury, I added a new preventative initiative by forcing myself to rest a week between each session and performing knee strengtheners every day in order to barely make it through the next session. Thanks to Zack DiCristino’s knee exercises, featured in Issue 2 of the Gym Climber magazine, each Hold the Doors session got a little less painful and a little more send-able (without the worry of blowing out my lateral collateral ligament).
The ounce:
Despite spending a minimum of half an hour each day attempting to steer clear of injury, I did not have enough self-control when it came to Jabberwocky Direct v11 (in Red Rock, NV). In a determined rage, I continuously yarded to the crux pocket for a multitude of desperate sessions. Rapid firing at my limit eventually paid its consequence, and I spent the next two months recovering from a painful strain in my middle finger.
Dealing with an injury was completely overwhelming, and taking a climbing hiatus meant a broken soul. After bulk resting and research, I discovered an ideal and relatively quick rehab protocol (despite never fully diagnosing the injury). Using Esther Smith’s glorious hang-board pocket rehab, which I found on Training Beta Podcast’s “How to Heal Finger Injuries,” I steadily transitioned from zero climbing to occasional gym jugs to the hesitant return but ultimate slay of Jabberwocky Direct v11.
As a dedicated climber, my goal is to push hard and search for the max, which means injuries can be easy to find. Even though I took an injury-induced bouldering hiatus, both my regularly practiced injury prevention and staying in tune with my physical needs has allowed a decrease in potential-injuries. So with much debt to all the protocols I’ve found, including Smith’s rehab, I can safely and healthily say, all’s well that ends well.
Miriam Borgstrom has stood atop twenty-four double digit boulders and fourteen USAC podiums. She has been supported by Butora for the past four years and 8BPlus for three. She resides in Southern Nevada, carefully rapid firing.
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Here we have a crate stacking contestant going for his 10th crate while rocking his Butora Acros!
Butora rep. Chris Hofer talking about the history of Butora with an ICF attendee. Butora also had a demo booth set up at the event for people to try on and buy shoes at a discounted price.
Butora Climbing helped host the 2022 Limestone Rodeo Competition at this year's International Climbers’ Festival at Wild Iris. It is a point based climbing competition that gets people outdoors and climbing all day to win a cash prize. Our booth was equipped with information on the area, snacks, and coffee.
Back at the festival, there were more fun events and friendly competitions happening such as rodeo clipping and speed climbing for prizes!
Overall this year’s International Climbers’ Festival was a success. It brought together hundreds of climbers and brands from all over the country into one spot. It included movie premiers, competitions, food, free swag, drinks, and much more. We look forward to getting back out there next year, and hope anyone passionate in the climbing industry will be out there as well.
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First off, there's no golden rule of when any one individual should start training for climbing. You'll read here and there, "oh, six months," or "oh, one year," but there are so many different types of training that it's possible to start training at any point during your climbing journey. The first question you must ask yourself is: how long have you been climbing consistently? If your answer is, 'well, I haven't been climbing consistently, that is the first step. Try climbing consistently (2-5 times per week) and focus on trying to climb as much as you possibly can in each session. That is going to be the quickest and easiest way to improve your climbing ability right off the bat exponentially. If you have been climbing consistently, it's time for question two.
How fast have you improved since the beginning of your climbing journey? If you feel you've progressed extremely fast since starting to climb, and the rate of your progression has begun to slow, it could be time to introduce some lower-intensity training sessions into your climbing routine. If you've jumped from V0 to V6 in only six months or less, your finger tendon resilience is not quite up to how hard you'd like to pull. Building that resilience in your finger tendons and pulleys takes nothing but time, so it's a good idea to begin your training with lower-intensity activities until you've been climbing for at least six months to one year. Anything less than that, your chance of finger injury through training on a hangboard skyrockets. That being said, if you find yourself in this boat, tread carefully when it comes to heinous crimps during your climbing sessions. You might feel as if you are ready to conquer that crimpy ladder on the 45-degree wall, but your fingers might think differently. Ease into the small crimps over time, and focus on gaining sloper and pinch strength in those early months of climbing. Your fingers will thank you later. Now, this doesn't mean you can't train for climbing! Lower intensity training will suit you better and can include training power endurance, total body strength, technique, or mental exercise.
If you have been climbing consistently for longer than six months or one year and slowly inching your way up the grading scale, you likely have a decreased risk of finger injury during training. You should ask yourself: what is holding you back in your climbing? There are three categories of climbing that could be holding you back. Mental, technical, and physical. The mental aspect is your emotional response and how that affects your climbing ability. The technical part is the efficiency at which you move your body on the wall. That means your footwork, body positioning, ability to read and sequence a route off the wall, and an understanding of your center of gravity and how it affects your climbing. Last but not least, the physical aspect of climbing is what most people think of when they think of training. The physical aspect of climbing is the amount of strength, power, and endurance you have.
Your weakness could be any of these critical categories of climbing. Maybe you keep feeling fearful of climbing above a clip or to the top of the bouldering wall, and you need to focus your training on the mental aspect of climbing. Maybe you get pumped out of your mind after performing powerful move after powerful move on your proj, and you need to focus on your power endurance. Identifying these weaknesses is necessary before jumping into a climbing training program, so you can be sure you are training what is essential to bring your climbing to the next level.
Another vital question to ask yourself before diving into training is: do you feel your climbing ability has remained the same for 3+ months with no improvement? If your climbing progress has been consistently improving in the past few months, keep it your current climbing routine! There's no need to fix it if it's not broken. But, if you have found yourself in a rut of experiencing negative emotions toward a climbing plateau, it's a great time to start incorporating some intentional training into your climbing sessions.
]]>It's no secret that competition climbing has taken a massive rise in recent years. You might have noticed an increased amount of kids warming up on your project calling themselves "comp team", or watched sport climbing's debut in the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Competition climbing started in 1985 in Europe and competitions were held on natural rocks. That didn't last long due to significant issues whenever bad weather was involved. So in the early 1990s, competition climbing began on artificial walls. Since then, competition climbing has exploded and continues to do so!
There are three different disciplines of competition climbing, bouldering, lead, and speed. For most competitions, athletes will compete in a qualification round, semi-final round, and finally, a final round of climbing. In each round, climbers are cut. These types of competitions are called "onsight format" competitions. That means the athletes cannot see or climb the routes before the competition starts unless there's a scheduled and timed "viewing period." During the viewing period, which is usually 5-10 minutes long, athletes can touch starting holds and discuss beta with each other for all the routes they will be climbing during the competition. Once the viewing period ceases, athletes are ushered back into the isolation area, where they cannot see their fellow competitors climbing, most commonly referred to as isolation (iso). Athletes remain in iso until it is their turn to climb, where they will have 4-6 minutes to climb each route.
Imagine trying your absolute hardest on a boulder at your maximum capability but only having 4 minutes to de-pump and regain your power for the next climb. It is hard. Competition climbing is no joke!
Bouldering is the discipline of climbing on walls 13-15 feet tall without using ropes or harnesses. Instead, you've got a big, fluffy mat underneath you since every fall is a ground fall.
In a bouldering competition, each athlete climbs 4-6 different boulders. Their scores are based on how high up they can get on the climb and how many attempts it takes them to get to their high point. On every bouldering problem, there are 1-2 zone holds and a hold labeled "top", which is the last hold. If a climber gets to a zone hold and controls it with at least one hand, they are awarded the zone. The same rules apply for the top hold, except you have to control it with two hands for at least two seconds. For example, an athlete that gets to the top hold will place above an athlete that only gets to the zone hold, and this athlete will place above one whose high point is below the zone hold. If multiple athletes get to the top of the zone, they will be placed in order of who had the least amount of attempts to that point. The tricky part about this scoring is that all the holds in between the start and the zone, and the zone and the top, do not count for any extra points. If an athlete gets to the hole right below the top in one attempt and another gets to the zone and then falls in one attempt, they will receive the same score.
In the lead discipline, the walls are much taller, anywhere from 30 to 70 feet, and athletes require a rope and harness (and a belayer!) to climb. For those unfamiliar with lead climbing, the athlete starts with their rope on the ground, not already at the top of the wall like a typical top rope. As they climb, they will grab their rope and clip it into hanging carabiners (quickdraws) on the wall up the route. In the event of a fall, they will be caught by their rope and belayer long before they hit the ground!
Scoring for lead competition climbing is quite different from bouldering. In lead competitions, every hold counts as a new high point. Typically, every hold will have a number, the first hold starting with one and continuing up to the last, whatever number that may be. To receive the points for a particular hold, the athlete must demonstrate control of that hold. If they are on a hold and move up to the next hold but either miss it or don't control it, they will receive the score of the last hold they controlled, but with a plus at the end, for example, 20+. The plus sign indicates upward movement off the most recent hold and is a higher score than 20 without a plus sign. If two athletes top the route, it will come down to whoever climbed it faster to break the tie.
The speed discipline is the outlier of climbing since it is drastically different from bouldering and lead. It is what it sounds like. Athletes are climbing for speed. The speed route is the same worldwide to create consistency for all athletes competing in speed. The holds are manufactured by the same company, placed on the wall in the same fashion, and the wall angle is exactly 5 degrees overhanging and 15 meters tall. Athletes have multiple rounds (usually three) of climbing this route as fast as possible, and their fastest time is recorded.
Competition climbing will continue exponentially in the next coming years, so now you have an excellent idea of how it all works for your first climbing competition.
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Power endurance is the ability to sustain just under sub-maximal effort for a long duration without a decrease in muscle efficiency. It is one of the most vital skills
for becoming a top-level climber. No one likes to climb one hard-ish boulder and feel exhausted for the day, nor does a climber like to climb two-thirds of a rope climb and have their muscles become useless so close to the top. In these moments, having a solid power endurance base will save the day.
When you train to increase your power endurance, you aim to improve how long you can climb moderately difficult climbs. The goal is to build up the maximum time you can perform hard moves before your muscles protest, lactic acid builds, and your forearms fail to work causing you to fall.
It is helpful if you know the terms anaerobic (without oxygen) and aerobic (with oxygen) systems. The simplest way to separate the two systems in climbing is to view boulder problems as anaerobic and rope climbs as aerobic. The panting, out-of-breath feeling associated with coming off a challenging boulder indicates you have exhausted your anaerobic system. However, when climbing moderately hard for two or more minutes, you will likely tap into your aerobic system. Power endurance training is considered aerobic exercise. Since you are climbing for a more extended period, you tap into your aerobic system, thus increasing endurance (think jogging). The power portion comes into play with the difficulty of the climbs and sustaining that difficulty. While you will not want to do a power endurance at your max climbing grade, you will want to pick moderately challenging climbs. As you progress through a power endurance workout, you should feel yourself having to try hard to make it to make each move and finish the climb.
Don't be fooled, though. While increasing your power endurance significantly improves your climbing, the workouts are often grueling. Ask a seasoned climber at your local gym, and they will likely express a love-hate relationship with power endurance workouts. Yeah, they hurt, but they work. Power endurance is an excellent mental strength test as you gain physical strength simultaneously. It will cause you to ask yourself, can I make one more move when everything in your body wants to quit? Can I pull hard two more times? Can I deal with a moderate but consistent pain or discomfort and still execute smoothly on the climbing wall? Maybe at first, your answer will be 'no,' but with time, patience, and determination, you'll be a pro at training power endurance and will be able to keep up with all the hardcore climbers at your local gym!
Some common power endurance workouts include 4x4s and circuit climbing. 4x4s are probably the most famous climbing workout. And for good reason! 4x4s are one of the most efficient ways to increase your power endurance. So what’s the problem? They suck. To perform a 4x4, pick four boulder problems just below your onsight level (your onsight level is the level at which you can likely complete a climb on the first try). Try to pick problems on overhanging walls. You will then climb each climb 1 time without resting between. Rest for 4 minutes. Repeat 4 times total. 4 climbs, 4 times!
Are you ready to train power endurance? Let us know how it goes in the comments below, or comment your go-to power endurance exercise!
]]>Do you think you're flexible, good at pistol squats, or good at picking up things with your mouth? If so, give this challenge a try.
Supplies: Paper bag, open space
How to do it:
Place the paper bag upright on the ground in front of you.
Start standing behind the bag and slowly squat/lean-forward on one leg, letting the other leg flag (extend behind your body) for balance.
Without letting your hands or elevated foot tap the ground, pick up the paper bag with your mouth and return to standing.
Benefits: This challenge is great for working on pistol squats, a one-legged movement often demanded on the climbing wall when you have to push all of your weight up on one leg. It is also great for improving balance, mobility, and stability - components of being a well-rounded climber.
Join in with the slew of viral Instagram, TikTok, and Facebook workout videos aesthetically set to music. This challenge, set to the song Flower by Moby, is guaranteed to leave your muscles burning and, maybe, a smile on your face.
Supplies: Pull-up bar, the song Flower by Moby
How to do it:
Start the song and immediately begin to dead hang from the pull-up bar.
Every time the song says 'Bring Sally up,' complete one pull-up on the word "up."
After the rep, return to the dead hang position on the bar and repeat for the entire song, or as long as you can make it before falling! If doing it with a friend, see who can last the longest.
*Modification: If this challenge is too difficult to do with pull-ups, substitute with a different exercise! Alternative movements include squat-hold/squat, plank-hold/push-up, or 6-inches leg-lift hold/leg-lift.
Benefits: If you last the entire song, you'll complete 30 repetitions of whichever movement you choose to do! Doing pull-ups will help improve your pull strength and max-hang time and provide a mini-power endurance workout (for any physical activity you decide to complete)!
Be prepared to shake, feel the burn, and increase your lock-off strength if you undertake this challenge!
Supplies: Pull-up bar, piece of paper, timer,
How to do it:
Go to the pull-up bar, start the timer, or have a friend time.
Hold a 90-degree lock-off for 30 seconds while keeping the piece of paper pinned between your forehead and the pull-up bar.
If the paper falls, stop the timer, take a rest, and then try again. You can only claim victory if you last 30 seconds without the piece of paper slipping to the ground.
Benefits: As the name implies, this challenge helps increase lock-off strength. The ability to lock off on a climbing hold for an extended period will make big moves and reaches less taxing.
Inspired by the Norwegian climbing star Magnus Mitdbo, this challenge will test you in every way possible. Be ready to push yourself, draw on mental fortitude, and get stronger! Pro tip: Be consistent and don't rush; try not to stop moving the entire time. As they say, slow and steady wins the race!
Supplies: Pull-up bar, stopwatch, *optional* mat
How to do it:
Grab a stopwatch and start the clock. You can't stop the time until you complete the following: 100 pull-ups, 100 push-ups, 100 crunches, and 100 squats.
Complete all exercises in whatever order you wish and as many sets as needed.
The goal is to get them done as fast as possible, and if you're competing against a friend, you'll want to beat their time!
If training alone, repeat the challenge every few weeks to see if you beat your old time!
Benefits: Completing this challenge will work to improve your muscular strength, muscular endurance, power, and cardiovascular endurance - truly an all-in-one workout!
Supplies: Broomstick handle, open space, yourself, *optional* mat
How to do it:
Wrap both arms around the broomstick so it is between your arms and your back.
Slowly lower yourself to the ground without using your hands.
Once lying flat on your stomach, stand up while keeping the broomstick behind your back.
Benefit: This challenge will test your flexibility, mobility, and core strength. If you struggle on the first go around, consider incorporating a stretching routine into your training. Try the challenge again to see if the improved strength and flexibility make it easier to complete!
Maybe you have heard of this challenge or seen a video of someone trying to attempt it. Be warned - it can be tricky, but if you think you have what it takes to traverse a chair, try out this challenge!
Supplies: a sturdy chair
How to do it:
Start sitting in the chair.
Pull your feet off the ground and climb over the front of the chair, continuing underneath the chair, and then over the back.
End back in a seated position. Don't let any body part touch the ground, or you'll have to start over.
Benefit: This challenge aims to provide a good laugh while strengthening a climber's creativity, strength, and body awareness. Sometimes climbs demand awkward movements and for you to contort your body, so this challenge is perfect training for those awkward moves!
Remember: training for climbing doesn't have to be repetitive or boring. There are plenty of ways to mix it up and have some fun! Try out one or more of these six challenges next time you're in the gym, and let us know how it goes in the comments!
Regardless of what's in your head off the wall, as soon as you lift up from the ground, your brain wants to focus on one thing: keeping you from plummeting back down! That is where observation and problem-solving skills kick in. Just like any kind of puzzle, the brain receives quite a workout as it scans the many path options of a route and tries to determine the best possible path forward. As you move along a route, a hold may not feel like you thought it would or offer as good of grip, adding on a little more resistance to the mental bench press as your brain quickly reassesses and attempts again. And it does this all while working to hold you on the wall!
As your body asks for your full attention, try your best to hand it over. There are many approaches to this challenge of concentration. You can try to memorize a route before attempting a climb and seeing how many moves you can remember as you go, or just move your focus from one hold to the next until you finish a route. For folks dealing with mental health conditions that cause busy, loud, or simply hard to sit with brains, the practice of separating from the noise and forcing your mind to deal with the situation at hand offers not only temporary time outside of your head but also helps stretch your familiarity with and ability to maintain that space when needed.
Even if your goal is simply to stop worrying about what your boss's response will be to your latest project or that embarrassing moment you had in front of a new friend earlier in the day, these exercises can be utilized to help calm the noise and offer some positive, empowering time with yourself.
When it comes to being present in your body, climbing offers a unique opportunity for grounding work that helps regulate your brain and body during your climb. It enables you to improve and build lasting techniques.
For this exercise, start with an easier route. The goal is to get comfy with the movement before applying it throughout your more challenging climbs. As you move each of your limbs to a new hold or position, try to move a bit more slowly and intentionally on the route than you might typically do. Be conscious of where you are placing your body, how it feels to make contact with a hand or foothold, how it feels for your muscles to contract and relax as you move, and what sensations are present. Does your body feel tight? Power packed? Perhaps even shaky or tired? Whatever sensation you encounter, take note, then move into the next. As with a typical grounding exercise, this practice helps bring you into the present. Grounding exercises are beneficial for folks who struggle with symptoms of anxiety as well as trauma-related conditions such as PTSD.
This grounding work, combined with the physical sensation of strength that climbing forces one's body to recognize, offers a highly empowering experience for many climbers. Whether you are sending every route or focusing on getting one hold higher than last time, remaining present and intentional in your climbing will help improve your time in the gym and with yourself as a climber.
Climbing is utilized in all sorts of rehabilitation and team-building environments, emphasizing the benefits of improved trust between individuals. Challenging your trust can be as simple as trying a climb with a belay partner for the first time. When it comes to top-roping and other sorts of rope-required climbing, the practice of trusting another person to quite literally hold your life in their hands is powerful. Outside of the trust placed in a belay partner, trusting in your own knot-tying abilities, your judgment that allowed you to try such a feat in the first place, and your ability to successfully tackle new skills, no matter how intimidating, cultivates a resilient relationship with yourself, your brain, and body.
When it comes to trusting in your own body and skill, here's a helpful activity that's easy to engage in and helpful not just for mental health but for climbing ability. Whether you're bouldering or top-roping if you notice yourself replacing a hand or foot several times before trusting your position (otherwise known as pumping), challenge yourself to make as intentional placements as possible. As you progress in this skill, try allowing yourself one opportunity for placement per move. As you do this, you are likely to become more aware of what sorts of positions offer the best stability or grip (ding ding ding! Climbing skill alert!), but you'll also start trusting your body and judgment more and more. Just as with most physically demanding activities, your body is often more capable of making a move or landing a hold than our brains let us think!
As you consider the hindrances or advantages of your mental state in your climbing, consider what practices might help you better approach your next session. Whether you try some of these techniques or simply take better note of your mentality the next time you're on the wall, remember; brain and body go hand in hand! Just as you likely experienced some degree of mental health benefits as you progressed in your climbing practice, your body is likely to thank you for spending a little extra time focused on your brain.
Here are the basics of climbing shoes: shoe types, fit, and life.
There's more than one type of climbing shoe? Yep.
With no downturn in the toe, neutral shoes are the most comfortable style of climbing shoe and are designed for sustained comfort while providing a thicker rubber sole for support. They are the go-to beginner shoe but are a step up from rental shoes. These won't be as useful on more challenging and steeper climbs, but don't worry; they'll get the job done!
These shoes have a slightly downturned shape giving you an edge on technical routes with precise footwork. The downturned position allows the climber to "grab" the rock with their toes a bit easier than the flat position of a neutral shoe. The rubber on most moderate shoes is generally stickier and thinner than the rubber on neutral shoes for increased precision.
These shoes are more downturned than moderate shoes, further increasing the strength and power the climber can derive from their foot positioning. These shoes are not ones you'll want to wear all day as they can be uncomfortable due to their aggressive (almost banana-like) shape. They are excellent shoes for steep, overhung climbs with small foot holds.
**While we include aggressive shoes so that you are aware of the difference, we encourage you to start with a neutral or moderate shoe (depending on how quickly you are progressing) as your first pair!
How do I know what's the right size? Great Question!
Sizing for comfort is your best bet with your first climbing shoe. Neutral shoes will be the most comfortable, while aggressive shoes will feel the most uncomfortable. When you try on a pair of neutral or moderate shoes, start with your street shoe size. If your toe touches the end of the shoe - that is normal! You want them to fit snuggly for best performance. If they are loose/your toes have room, try going down .5 a size to 1 full size. On the other hand, if your toes painfully curl at the end of the shoe, size up!
Sizing for performance is more applicable when purchasing a pair of moderate or aggressive shoes. With the more downturned shoes, you are looking to enhance precision. Many professional and elite climbers will size down (aka 'downsizing') from their street shoe size by 1-3 sizes, so they have the snuggest fit possible. That subsequently allows them to feel their foot placement on each hold much better than in a looser shoe.
Keep in mind that each climbing shoe brand will feel and fit slightly differently, even if the shoes are the same size across brands. Your best bet is to go to a local outdoor gear shop or climbing gym to try the shoes on in person! Don't be afraid to ask your employees for help as well - most employees at outdoor stores or climbing gyms are experts at helping you size your climbing shoes!
So, how long will my investment last? It depends.
Technique and climbing frequency will contribute to the overall wear of the rubber on the shoe. The better your technique, the longer you can prolong the life of the rubber. For example, if you have good footwork, you will not scrape the rubber along the wall with every move, and the shoes will last longer. Additionally, the less frequently you climb, the longer the rubber on the shoes will last. Moderate and aggressive shoes also have thinner rubber on the soles than neutral shoes, which leads to quicker wear. A general rule of thumb is that shoes will last from 6 - 12 months for a climber putting in 3-5 sessions a week.
Best of luck on your climbing shoe search, and cheers to future sends in your new shoes! Let us know what your first pair of climbing shoes is/was in the comments below!
If you want to start rock climbing or improving your climbing game, these rock climbing workouts will make all the difference.
]]>Did you know that rock climbing is one of the best low-impact ways to build muscle and improve cardiovascular health?
Rock climbing is also a demanding sport that requires lots of concentration and physical strength. That is why even the most skilled climbers do regular workouts to prepare themselves for tackling challenging routes.
If you want to find out about the best rock climbing workouts, keep reading, and we'll tell you everything you need to know.
You need to have plenty of upper body strength if you want to be able to scale the steepest pitches. Experienced climbers include pull-ups as part of their climbing exercise routines.
It won't cost you much to buy a pull-up bar. It's also easy to make one at home. Many people choose to install them in the doorway to one of the rooms in which they spend a lot of time. If you decide to do this, you can challenge yourself to do one pull-up every time you pass through the doorway.
If you're new to doing pull-ups, start using an underhand grip. That will help you strengthen your biceps and back muscles.
This is a great exercise for building strength in your core. It will help you become more balanced and make smooth movements when climbing on overhangs.
It would help if you had strong core muscles so that other parts of your body won't need to work so hard when you're climbing.
To complete a plank, all you need to do is get in a press-up position with your forearms on the ground. Make sure that there is a straight line from your shoulders to your ankles. Hold the position for thirty to sixty seconds, and repeat it three to five times.
If you're looking for an exercise that will help you improve your gripping strength, then this is it. Once you build the strength to cling to tiny climbing holds, it will become easier for you to complete your routes.
You can use a pull-up bar to do bar hangs, but you can also practice hanging from ledges and trees in your neighborhood.
One of the most common rock climbing workouts involves doing push-ups. It's a helpful exercise for those who want to get better at mantling. Once you do push-ups regularly for several weeks, you'll find that it gets easier to scramble onto ledges and top-out routes.
This is a helpful exercise for those who want to strengthen their ankles and calf muscles. To complete this exercise, all you need to do is stand close to a wall. Put your hands on the wall and hold your heels off the ground.
Hold this position for five or ten seconds and try to do at least ten reps.
If you're trying to figure out the best rock climbing workouts, remember how important it is to do pull-ups and push-ups. It would help if you also did heel raises to build strength in your ankles.
If you want to know more about the top climbing exercises, keep reading our blog.
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As the leaves change and pumpkin spice fills the shelves, climbers can only think of one thing: sending temperatures! Fall is finally here, which means that outdoor climbing is right around the corner. Each season of outdoor climbing poses its own unique challenges. It can be challenging to get motivated to climb in the snow and ice of winter, spring comes with great temps, but often unreliable weather, and summer brings that unbearable heat. Fall is one of the best times of the year to get outside to rock climb. After a long and grueling summer of training, you are rewarded with better temps, low humidity, and beautiful scenery! So how can you be sure that you are ready for fall climbing? We are here to give you three essential tips to keep in mind as you transition from indoor to outdoor rock climbing.
Manage Your Expectations
First, and most importantly, climbers must learn to manage their expectations as they transition from indoor to outdoor climbing. Whether it is your first season climbing outdoors or your 10th, you cannot expect to immediately climb at your gym level outdoors. While indoor and outdoor climbing are related, there are important differences between them. Outdoor climbing is condition-dependent, utilizes unfamiliar hold textures and shapes, is often difficult to read, and incorporates a unique fear factor. So be sure to set your expectations accordingly. Try giving yourself several acclimation days if you are transitioning to outdoor climbing or even to a new area outdoors. During these acclimation days, your goal should not necessarily be to send but instead to get on as many new routes or boulder problems as possible. This simple shift in mindset for the first couple of outdoor sessions can set you up for an incredible season!
Focus on Sequencing
As we mentioned above, one key difference between indoor and outdoor climbing is that outdoor climbs are often difficult to read. Clearly, you cannot rely on hold or tape colors to guide you through an outdoor climb. But more importantly, often, when you climb outdoors, every foot and handhold in reach is fair game! This means that you have to make many important decisions about your sequence. As the outdoor climbing season approaches, try to incorporate sequencing drills into your gym climbing sessions to prepare for this. Sequencing drills require that a climber think closely about the body positions, handholds, and footholds they use when climbing. Give this one a try and let us know if it helped:
Sequencing Drill: Video Beta
1) Pick a boulder problem about two grades below your redpoint or the hardest grade you can climb
2) Set a timer for 3 minutes and sequence the climb thoroughly. Start with which hand holds you will use, then footholds, then body positions when moving between holds,and finally run through the entire climb with your eyes closed.
3) Position your phone so that it captures the entire climb and then record yourself climbing.
4) Rest for 3 minutes. Meanwhile, review the tape and figure out if you stuck to the sequence or if you changed things mid-climb. Take note of those changes.
5) Record yourself climbing the boulder problem again. Try to use the exact same beta from your previous video.
6) Compare the videos! How did you do? What unexpected things did you not sequence originally?
7) Perform this drill on three different climbs.
Check the Conditions
Lastly, when you are transitioning to outdoor climbing you have to check the conditions. Knowing the temperature and whether or not it will rain is a good start, but take note of the humidity, the air quality (especially at the tail end of fire season), and the wind. All of these factors will play a huge role in your success. If it is especially windy, maybe stay low to the ground and boulder for the day. If the humidity is high, try running laps on easier routes instead of projecting. Conditions can make or break a climbing day, so learn how to read them and adjust your plan accordingly. Fall is one of the most exciting times of the year for rock climbers. To get the most out of your season, make sure to take the proper precautions!
]]>Aggressive climbing shoes generally have an extreme downturn that exaggerates the arch, while flat climbing shoes are shaped a bit more like traditional shoes. You may have heard the common myth that flat shoes are for beginners and aggressive shoes are for experienced climbers. While there is some truth to this claim, many experienced climbers prefer flat shoes for a variety of reasons (not the least of which is comfort!), and you may not have to be as experienced as you think to utilize aggressive shoes. Below we will go over the properties of aggressive and flat shoes, how to best use them, and how to know if they may be for you.
So it’s not entirely a myth... The first thing to know about aggressive shoes is that they are often catered towards more experienced climbers. This does not mean that you have to crush 5.13 to wear a downturned shoe! But aggressive shoes are probably not the best choice for a first climbing shoe.
Aggressive shoes provide climbers with several distinct advantages over flat climbing shoes. First, they excel on steep terrain. When you are climbing on any kind of overhang from 10 degrees to full-on roof climbing, the downward curve of aggressive climbing shoes sets the climber up to “pull” on the holds with their feet. This means the climber is less likely to cut (or accidentally release) their feet, and they can save energy by staying tight to the wall. Second, aggressive shoes allow climbers to heel hook more optimally. Aggressive shoes generally force the climber to point their toe and provide a comfortable pocket in the heel of the shoe. Third, and finally, the design of aggressive shoes is such that the climber can not only feel tiny edges on the inside of their big toe, but they can grab on and push off of those holds as well.
The main disadvantage of aggressive climbing shoes is simply that they are uncomfortable. Often called “bouldering shoes,” aggressive climbing shoes work best in small increments. Whether that is a couple of boulder problems or one pitch of sport climbing, your feet will need a break from that position after a couple of minutes! Another disadvantage is that a new climber will likely have difficulty capitalizing on the advantages listed above. It takes a while for a climber to begin climbing on overhung terrain and to learn to pull on small edges with your toes. This is why aggressive shoes may not be a great fit for new climbers.
Many climbers use flat shoes for a variety of reasons. They are an excellent choice for a beginner climber but also for many veteran climbers!
The main advantage of flat shoes is that they are more comfortable than aggressive shoes. Not only does this enhance the climbing experience, but it may be necessary for long days of climbing or for climbing multiple pitches. After all, Alex Honnold didn’t free solo the Dawn Wall in Acros! Flat shoes also make for excellent beginner and warm-up shoes. Many climbers purchase a flat climbing shoe as their first pair and as they learn what kind of climbing they enjoy most are then able to cater their shoe choice to their climbing style.
There is a reason that almost every climber in the 2020 Olympics was wearing some type of aggressive shoe: they provide the climber with the ability to perform better! Flat shoes simply do not provide the mechanical advantages of an aggressive shoe. If you find yourself on difficult terrain, flat shoes also have a reputation for falling off more easily than aggressive shoes. So when you are heel-hooking in a flat shoe, be sure you are velcro-ed or laced up tight.
Choosing the right climbing gear is all about catering specifically to your needs as a climber. So while we advise starting out with a flat pair of climbing shoes, think about the advantages and disadvantages of both flat and aggressive shoes when picking out your next pair. If you feel as though your shoes are holding you back from using smaller footholds, try an aggressive pair. And if you enjoy long days of rope climbing, consider a flatter pair!
We’ll guide you through everything you need to keep in mind when choosing the best footwear for your climbing adventures!
Before you start browsing rock climbing shoes, keep in mind that the shoe for you will depend upon your climbing needs. More advanced wilderness climbers will require very different footwear than beginner boulderers.
Take a minute to identify what you anticipate using your rock climbing shoes for. Are you just starting out in the sport of rock climbing? Will you be spending your weekends at the local rock climbing gym? Or are you gearing up to lead rock climbing on El Capitan?
What’s more, when you get to that rock, what type of climbing will you be doing? There’s a difference between bouldering and climbing gym walls versus navigating off-width cracks and crags.
Your climbing needs can help you determine your climbing shoe profile, flexibility, and material.
A lot of beginner climbers don’t realize that their street shoeswon’t match the sizing of their ideal pair of rock climbing shoes. The two are crafted based off of entirely different sizing scales, and this applies to both men’s and women’s shoes.
What’s more, a climbing shoe that fits you well won’t be loose and necessarily comfy. The ideal shoe should be snug without leading to compromising blisters and hot spots.
A snug shoe will enable you to ascend any rock wall with gecko-like deftness. It’s important to minimize any distance between your toes and the rock wall itself.
Because sizing is so unfamiliar to most people starting out in rock climbing, it’s essential to try on some actual shoes. Even if you end up purchasing some shoes online—and we recommend this, especially if you’re buying from a trusted retailer like Butora—stop by a climbing shop in your area to get a sense of fit.
Once you’ve determined your climbing shoe size, it’s time to decide on a shoe profile shape. No climbing shoe is the same, but the best way to differentiate the typical climbing shoes is by their profile. Different profiles can assist in various terrains.
In general, climbing shoes will have a hooked-toe, flat-lasted, or cambered-last shape. Don’t be intimidated by this terminology.
Hooked toe shoes are ideal for more expert climbers needing a powerful shoe to ascend difficult, unpredictable crag. The hooked toe enables climbers to access difficult footholds and ascend overhanging faces.
Cambered-last shoes are in a similar category, ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers. They are less “hooked” than hooked toe shoes, but they still enable climbers to access small footholds and ascend vertical crag.
Flat-lasted shoes are less snug than the hooked toe or cambered last shoes. Most beginners will choose flat lasted shoes because they are comfortable for bouldering and ascending standard rock walls.
Select your profile type based off of the kind of climbing you anticipate doing in the coming months.
Rock climbing shoes will be crafted from a pliable but durable material. Many shoes are made out of leather or a similar counterpart. Others are made out of synthetic fabrics and materials.The material you choose will be based on your comfort preferences.
Leather shoes tend to be more breathable than synthetic ones, so if your feet sweat a lot during climbing sessions, these may be ideal for you. Synthetic shoes are less likely to stretch out over time, however, because they are crafted from less flexible material.
Most shoes will have rubber soles to enable better gripping. Inspect the soles of rock climbing shoes to ensure that the traction suits your climbing needs.
Lastly, pay attention to each shoe’s fastening system. Many rock climbing shoes will have standard lace-ups, much like a traditional tennis shoe. Others will have velcro closures.
A shoe’s lacing can impact your climbing experience. Laces can come undone, for example, while velcro fasteners may not give you the snugness you require.It’s important to try on shoes of different materials and fastening systems to identify what’s best for you.
Rock climbing shoes take quite a beating, no matter what your skill level is as a rock climber. As such, it’s essential to purchase a high-quality shoe from a trusted manufacturer.
The best manufacturers may even offer ongoing customer support and limited warranties. What’s more, trusted brands will be well-versed in the climbing industry itself, much like Butora.
Spend some time researching leading manufacturers of the industry. Consult friends and family members about brands they recommend when it comes to climbing shoes.
Make sure the shoe manufacturer you do choose can offer expert knowledge and assistance about shoe selection.
Once you bring those new shoes to the wall, test their performance rigorously. Don’t be shy about returning any shoe that doesn’t suit your needs.
Check with your manufacturer regarding return policies. If possible, try out your new shoes on a cleaner wall, such as one in a rock climbing gym, to minimize damage.
Rock climbing is a growing sport that daily welcomes new athletes. If you’re breaking into the sport for the first time, it’s vital to find a comfortable pair of climbing shoes.
Know your shoe size and climbing needs before you start purchasing. Try on shoes from local retailers to get a sense of the profile and fit that work for you.
Lastly, always purchase from a trusted manufacturer and test out any pairs you purchase on the wall itself.
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Store your shoes properly! All too often, climbers simply leave their climbing shoes in the same bag they bring to the gym. Make sure to leave your climbing shoes out in the open or in a breathable bag between climbing sessions. The hall closet or the mudroom is excellent for this. If you live in a temperate climate, the garage may work, but be sure not to expose your climbing shoes to the heat or cold for an extended period. It is also vital that you store your shoes somewhere dry. It is not your feet or shoes that are smelly, but the waste from the bacteria accumulated by the filth in your shoes. That bacteria thrives in wet environments, so it is crucial to keep your shoes as dry as possible in between sessions.
Now that you are storing your shoes properly let's talk about cleaning them once in a while! You don't need to give them a full scrub down every time you get back from the gym. Cleaning your shoes too often may loosen the stitching and deteriorate the shoe faster. Instead, soak your shoes in some warm, soapy water once or twice a season and let them air dry. If they are filthy, gently rub the grime with a soft-bristled toothbrush after they soak. Remember what we just discussed about wet shoes and make sure they dry all the way through!
This one sounds obvious but wash your dang feet. The cleaner your feet are when you put on your shoes, the better. You don't need to go overboard and wash your feet five times a day to avoid smelly climbing shoes. Just be sure you are washing your feet thoroughly at least once a day to ensure all the dead skin cells end up down the drain and not in your shoes. Use a ped-egg or sandpaper if you want to go to town.
Smelly climbing shoes are a natural part of rock climbing. But if you take these precautions, you won't have to deal with smelly climbing shoes ever again!