Ambassador Spotlight | Austin Hoyt
Hometown: Tappan, NY
Q: What’s your climbing style?
A: Anything to do with crimps really, I love crimping in overhangs, but I also like jumping a lot too and being dynamic.
Q: What is your proudest accomplishment in climbing, and outside of climbing?
My proudest accomplishment in climbing is when I sent my first outdoor v11. My parents and I went into the city not having climbing in mind but I begged and annoyed them enough about this one v11 that Hunter Damiani FA’d in late 2014. He named it “the Last Supper” and it became one of the hardest climbs in the city. I had been wanting to try it ever since I saw his video and I was finally going to get on it, once we got there I wasn’t sure if it was actually possible but within 2 hours I was standing on top of “the Last Supper’ v11, later I learned I had gotten the second ascent.
My proudest accomplishment outside of climbing is that I have been an honor roll student since the fourth grade and now I’m in ninth. I also run cross-country for my school and have placed high enough to get medals in lots of races.
Q: What advice would you give to your first year climbing self?
A: If I could go back in time and talk to my first year climbing self I would make sure I eat a lot healthier.
Q: Who do you take advice from and why?
A: I take advice from anyone who is willing to give me any, you can learn anything from anyone no matter skill level.
Q: How has your training for climbing changed in the last year?
A: I used to train lots of finger strength and mainly pull strength but now we are training for comps so I have to train for lots of slopers and very explosive movement.
Q: How has climbing affected the people you choose to surround yourself with?
A: Climbing has affected my family life, when we used to go on family trips we would try to look for an arcade or maybe go-karts but now the first thing I ask is there climbing there.
Q: What have you done to give back to the climbing community?
A: I have done everything from volunteering at my local climbing comps to working with the access fund, we are currently in the mists of opening up an area right near my house and I’m even working on a guidebook.
Q: What have you learned from failure?
A: I’ve learned a lot from my failures, but the most important thing I’ve learned is how to succeed. In other words, I learned how to learn from my mistakes. The best way to do that is always to video yourself.
Q: Who are the climbers that inspire you the most, and why?
A: There are so many climbers that inspire me, but if I had to pick two I would pick my coach Charlie and I would pick Nalle. I picked Charlie because he introduced me to climbing and without him, I wouldn’t be where I am today. I chose Nalle because he is the strongest climber I know of, I love watching his video and when he finally sent “Burden Of Dreams” I was in awe.
Q: What is your favorite climbing location, and why?
A: I can’t narrow it down to one but I can narrow it down to two, those two have to be The Gunks and Joes Valley. I love the Gunks because it was the first place I ever went outdoor climbing and its where I fell in love with outdoor climbing. Also, I’m making a film about the gunks so keep an eye out for that. I chose Joes because its the most beautiful place I’ve ever climbed and the rock there is the best rock I’ve ever climbed on!
Q: Why Butora Climbing?
A: Why Butora? Simple, Butora shoes are the only shoe that fits my foot in that amazingly comfortable yet extremely efficient way and they stick to anything. It’s great!
Q: What are your favorite before and after climbing meals?
A: My favorite meal before a comp is pasta, I love the carbs before climbing. For after climbing I don’t really have a set food I usually eat whatever my mom makes for dinner.
Q: What is your spirit animal?
A: Well according to the online Spirit Animal Test I took, my spirit animal is a bear.
Q: What differences have you found in climbing Narsha versus climbing in Acro?
A: The main differences I’ve found in the two shoes are the rubber and stiffness. I climb in the Narsha outside because I think the rubber on the Narsha’s is harder and the shoe is stiffer. For indoor climbing, I find the Acros are better because they are a bit softer.
Q: What are some tips you would give to new outdoor climbers about crag etiquette?
A: Make sure when you visit a new crag you stay on the trails not matter what and always pack out what you bring in. Also, don’t forget to brush off your tick marks! And always pick up any trash that others have left behind.
Q: Tips you would give to someone who is stuck on their project? How do you stay motivated when you are stuck?
A: The best way to stay psyched on your project is to watch a lot of videos about it, and try to get out and try it as much as you can. Another thing I’ve done to stay psyched was to try to re-set a project I had outside in my gym or on my home wall.
Q: How have you overcome fear in climbing (fear of falling, fear of failure, etc.)?
A: The most effective way to overcome fear it to do whatever you’re scared of a lot. If your afraid of falling then go to the gym and work on only falling until you feel you’re not scared anymore.
Check out our next Ambassador, Eddie Russell
