Q: What’s your climbing style?
A: Crimpy and steep
Q: What is your proudest accomplishment in climbing, and outside of climbing?
A: Finishing 12th in the World Cup in Arco Italy. A lot of things that needed to come together did on the semifinal route. I have always had headspace issues and although I’ve finished higher than 12th (the World Cup in wujiang 2014) I managed to climb this route with the best headspace I’ve ever had. Outside of climbing I’m not sure.. Maybe speaking good enough mandarin to get by in every situation I faced last trip to China!
Q: What advice would you give to your first year climbing self?
A: Don’t overdue it and don’t be afraid to take more rest.
Q: Who do you take advice from and why?
A: I think that I can learn from everyone. So there is nobody I wouldn’t listen to if they have some advice to offer.
Q: How has your training for climbing changed in the last year?
A: I have been resting more when my body needs it and focusing on a larger variety of moves and styles. Also I have spent some time injured with a broken hand and am still recovering. So I have had to learn to listen to my body better.
Q: How has climbing affected the people you choose to surround yourself with?
A: Most of the people close to me in my life are climbers. So I don’t think they are affected by climbing but they are there because of climbing. I think we have a stronger connection because of our shared love for the sport.
Q: What have you done to give back to the climbing community?
A: I act as a role model that many younger climbers look up to. Especially in competitions. I also spend time route setting and enjoy getting to create climbs for less experienced climbers. It feels like I am sharing my knowledge with them. Finally, I have cleaned and established some boulder problems near my home on Vancouver Island that other climbers can now try.
Q: What have you learned from failure?
A: I have learned that failure isn’t always a bad thing. It is an opportunity to look at what went wrong and make changes. It has also taught me to try and keep emotions out of the mix as best as possible. So that I can be objective in looking at what went wrong.
Q: Who are the climbers that inspire you the most, and why?
A: It’s hard to just pinpoint a few climbers. But I am inspired by people who try their best in the worst conditions be it scorching heat or piles of snow. Climbers that are extremely positive. And finally, I am inspired when people go and create things be it bolting routes, cleaning boulders or hiking to new areas. I would say Adam Ondra is the essence of all that.
Q: What is your favorite climbing location, and why?
A: That’s tougher but probably Squamish. I love the texture of the rock and the subtlety of the movement. I have never climbed somewhere else where the discovery of a tiny crystal or a 3 degree drop in temperature can make such a difference.
Q: Why Butora Climbing?
A: The shoes are amazing! I feel confident when I place my feet especially on technical edges and smears. And the shoes are comfortable at the same time. The people behind the brand aren’t half bad either!
Q: What are your favorite before and after climbing meals?
A: Before climbing probably nothing or a banana some days. And afterwards a rich and hearty pasta will satisfy me. I prefer to eat during climbing though to keep my energy high.
Q: What is your spirit animal?
Questions from the Internet
These are questions our visitors have asked.
Q: What differences have you found in climbing Narsha versus climbing in Acro?
A: I haven’t had the opportunity to try the Narsha yet but I’m looking forward to getting a pair this year. I love the Acro so I’m sure I’ll love the Narsha!
Q: What are some tips you would give to new outdoor climbers about crag etiquette?
A: Wipe the mud off your feet before stepping on
Q: Tips you would give to someone who is stuck on their project? How do you stay motivated when you are stuck?
A: Take some time away from it. Be ok with walking away. And then take time to train the areas holding you back. Maybe recreate the crux in the gym. You will return strong and the stress of sending will also be eliminated.
Q: How have you overcome fear in climbing (fear of falling, fear of failure, etc.)?
A: I wouldn’t say I have overcome fear. It is always there in some form. But I’ve taught myself to handle it by trusting my ability and trusting the belayers/spotters.