If you are new to climbing, you have probably heard that your shoes are crucial to your success. A common belief is that if your feet don't hurt, your shoes aren't tight enough to be truly effective. But is this true? Read below to find out:
Q. How tight should climbing shoes be?
A.It's true that precise contact is necessary when climbing, so there should be no dead space in your climbing shoe. That said, too many climbers have unnecessarily accepted chronic foot pain as part and parcel of their sport. It's more important to have a shoe that fits properly and can conform to the shape of your foot — including any deformities like bunions or hammer toes — than wearing shoes that cause acute pain simply because they're too small for your feet!
Finding the right balance in climbing shoe fit is critical. Your toes should be close to the end of the shoe but not crammed. There should be enough room for your toes to wiggle. Remember, shoes that are too tight can harm your feet over time. When trying on climbing shoes, pay attention to how they feel on different parts of your foot. The heel should fit snugly without slipping, and the midsole should support your arch comfortably. Remember that climbing shoes will stretch as you break them in, so consider that when choosing the size. It's worth spending time to get the right fit because comfortable feet can make a huge difference in your climbing performance and enjoyment.
Q. Okay, so how will I know a good fit when I “feel” one?
A. Start with the time of day. The best time to try on a pair of climbing shoes — or any shoes, for that matter — is in the late afternoon. Why? Because by that time of day, your feet are slightly swollen after standing or walking throughout the day, and so are likely to be at their largest. Buying your shoes while your feet are somewhat swollen will eliminate shoes becoming too tight as your climb progresses, and your feet similarly swell a bit with exertion and at higher altitudes.
As mentioned, there should be no dead space between your toes and the toe of the shoe. Similarly, your heel should not slide around in them either.
Today's climbing shoes are designed to accommodate almost any size and shape of foot. Lace-up shoes can be tied tightly to conform to your foot, and Velcro styles can be easily removed if your feet need a rest.
If you wear socks, make sure to wear the same type of socks that you'll be wearing when you climb, and try on climbing shoes. This will help you get a true feel for how the shoes fit. It's also wise to walk around in the shoes to see how they feel on your feet. Do they pinch? Are they too loose anywhere? Remember, comfort is vital because you'll be wearing these shoes for long periods while climbing.
When looking for that perfect fit, pay attention to how the shoes feel on your feet. They should be snug but not painful. Climbing shoes are meant to be tighter than regular shoes but shouldn't hurt. Your toes should be close to the end of the shoe without curling.
Another tip is to try on several different brands and models. Each brand fits differently, and what works for one person might not work for another. Don't rush the process. Take your time to find the shoes that feel right for you.
Lastly, consider the material of the shoes. Leather stretches out over time, while synthetic materials usually don't. So, if you're between sizes and choose leather, go for the smaller size, knowing it will stretch. You'll want a comfortable fit from the start with synthetic shoes because they won't change much.
Remember, the best climbing shoe for you is the one that feels good, supports your type of climbing, and gives you confidence on the rock or wall.
Q. So, the tight climbing shoe fit is a myth?
A. Absolutely, it's a myth that needs to be busted. Twenty years ago, climbers were all about squeezing into super-small shoes. They thought this would give them better control on the rocks. But guess what? Shoe tech has come a long way since then. Today's climbing shoes are made to provide you with that snug fit without having to go sizes down. Understanding this evolution can help you appreciate the current state of climbing shoe design and fit.
When you jam your feet into shoes that are too tight, you're not doing yourself any favors. Your feet can't move naturally, and they sure can't take the hit when you drop from a hold. Plus, wearing too small shoes can mess up your feet over time. We're talking blisters, squished toes, and even problems with how you walk.
So, next time you're in the market for climbing shoes, remember that comfort is key. You want them tight enough to feel the rock but not so tight that you're in pain. After all, climbing should be about challenging yourself and having fun, not how much foot pain you can endure.
Q. What can happen if I wear an improperly fitting climbing shoe?
A. Any shoe — not just climbing shoes — that fit too tightly or forces your foot into an unnatural position (e.g., very high heels!) can also lead to:
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Blistering: Friction from tight spots or loose areas can cause blisters.
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Reduced Circulation: Too tight shoes may reduce blood flow, leading to numbness.
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Impaired Performance: Discomfort can distract you and reduce your ability to climb effectively.
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Increased Risk of Injury: Poorly fitting footwear might not provide the support needed, increasing the chance of falls or ankle sprains.
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Long-term Foot Problems: Over time, wearing ill-fitting shoes can result in chronic foot issues that may need medical attention. Tight shoes can cause several painful or uncomfortable conditions and foot deformities, such as: claw, hammer, or cross-over toes; bunions; corns; bleeding under the toenails; bruised feet; fungal infections; and nerve compression disorders. These conditions can significantly impact your climbing experience and should be avoided by ensuring your shoes fit properly.
Go for an in-person fitting if you're
buying your first pair of climbing shoes, changing styles to tackle a new aspect of climbing, or simply because your skills have evolved. Professional fitting can provide valuable insights and recommendations based on your unique foot shape and climbing style. Once you find an excellent
climbing shoe that fits right and performs well, you may want to get another pair just like them when they finally wear out. That's when you can take advantage of online deals. However, any online climbing shoe retailer worth their salt will also have authorized retailers carrying their shoes for personalized fitting assistance.
Most importantly, know that you can enjoy your sport without torturing your feet in the process!
Butora makes some of the highest-quality, performance-enhancing climbing shoes today. We focus on comfort AND performance. Check our authorized
Butora retailer near you!
