Endurance Training: Lasting Longer on the Wall

There are three pillars of climbing training: power, power endurance, and endurance. The former two require shorter, more intense efforts, with substantial rest.  The latter involves longer stints of moderate effort with shorter or active rests. Training all three pillars will make you a well-rounded climber, but for those of you looking to send your 100-foot outdoor sport projects, lap 5.11s in the gym, or climb moderate boulders for hours, endurance training will be your bread and butter.

You’ve probably been there, a handful of moves from the finish of your project, and you hit the wall. The pump won’t go away, your fingers open accordingly to their own will, and suddenly you’re hanging on the rope, lowering toward the ground. Maybe that happens on your first climb of the day, maybe your seventh. Either way, it’s frustrating. You want to be able to climb a little further, a little longer. So, how do you reach the point where you can beat the pump and keep climbing?

The primary goal of endurance training is to increase capillary density and aerobic capacity, which improves oxygen delivery and waste removal (such as lactic acid). These adaptations will increase the time you can spend on the wall and reduce the recovery time needed. 

Over the course of a multi-week training plan, you’ll want to incorporate a few key workouts that progressively increase the time spent climbing, while decreasing rest periods. You can complete each of the workouts on boulders or ropes, depending on what terrain is available to you, time constraints, and whether you have a ropes climbing partner. 

Pick a moderately challenging climb, ~80% effort. Climb the route three times in a row without rest in between reps. On ropes, do three sets, resting 5 minutes in between each set. For boulders, do six sets, resting 3 minutes in between each set.

Pick a route that you know you can send with 80-90% effort. Make sure it is nearby or on the same rope station as an easier climb. Climb up the more challenging route, down climb the more straightforward route (or rainbow downclimb), and end with a repeat of the more challenging route. The goal is not to fall and not to touch the ground. On ropes, do three sets, resting 5 minutes in between each. On boulders, do six sets, resting 3 minutes in between each set. 

If your gym has a spray wall, incorporating this workout is a great option. Hop on the spray wall and complete five, 50-100 move circuits. Work on varying the holds you grab between good, okay, and bad. If you start to get pumped, try to rest on a good hold on the wall or 

Rest 5-8 minutes between sets. Start on the lower end of the moves and work up to 100 moves at once over multiple weeks of doing this workout. 

Grab your phone and set a timer for 5-10 minutes. Climb boulders, routes, or on a spray wall until the time goes off. Rest for an equal amount of time and repeat for 3-5 times, depending on how long you climb for and how much time you have in the gym. As you repeat this workout, increase the time you spend on the wall by 60-90 seconds. 

Lemon-limes are the ultimate endurance test. Starting with the “Lemon,” pick a moderate route that you’d be comfortable climbing up and down. Start at the bottom of the climb and climb 1-3 moves up. Then reverse and climb back to the start holds. Repeat this pattern, adding on 1-3 moves each time you climb up until you’ve reached the top of the wall. Once at the top, being the “Lime” portion. Downclimb 1-3 moves and then return to the top of the wall. Repeat this pattern until you have downclimbed to the start of the route. 

This workout is a beast, especially if done on ropes vs. boulders. To adapt it, start with either the Lemon or Lime portion. Over time, add in the other half of the workout. Lemon-limes is a great workout to do on an auto-belay (it can be tiresome to be a belayer). 

The worst thing you can do to improve your endurance is to deliberate without taking action. Select one of the workouts or a variation and begin training. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but you need to spend more time climbing for your muscles and cardiovascular system to adapt accordingly. 

Leave a comment below with your favorite training routine for improving endurance and lasting longer on the wall!