Top 5 Tips for Returning to Climbing After a Break

In 2014, while attending college to become a Physical Education teacher, I unexpectedly became the head coach of a small climbing team at a newly opened gym in central Connecticut. As someone who had spent over a decade as a recreational climber, often sidelined by injuries, I had never considered what structured climbing training might look like. However, in my role helping young athletes improve and compete, I began researching. At the time, the primary resource I found was Eric Horst’s work on periodization. Shortly after, I discovered the Training Beta podcast, which launched my journey into the world of climbing training. 

Over the past seven years, I’ve learned a great deal about training both myself and others. Balancing a full-time job, full-time studies, and becoming a father in 2016 to my son, Parker, has been challenging but rewarding. As a PE teacher, I’m fortunate to travel and climb for at least a month every summer, embracing my “weekend warrior” lifestyle. 

My approach is designed for climbers with limited time, focusing on efficient, goal-oriented training. A typical school-year week for me looks like this:

 

● Weekends: Outdoor climbing, ideally both days. 

● Monday: Rest. 

● Tuesday: Finger strength training before work. 

● Wednesday: Strength endurance session in the morning, bouldering at the gym in the evening. 

● Thursday & Friday: Rest. 

● Saturday & Sunday: Repeat. 

My finger strength sessions are constantly evolving, but I follow a few key principles. After 10–12 sessions, I switch my timing protocol (e.g., from a 7:53x3 protocol to a 7:13x5). I rotate through 3–4 different protocols, constantly referencing past sessions to track progress and adjust weight. Keeping a journal is essential—I document what I did, when, how it felt, and any adjustments I make. Sessions are short but intense, lasting 15–35 minutes.

 

These sessions are tailored to my upcoming goals or trips. I use a variety of methods, such as:

 

● 4:4 intervals: Foot-on laddering on a campus board. 

● 7:3 repeaters: 60% effort to failure on a hangboard. 

● 1:1x5 intervals: On my 40-degree spray wall, focusing on slow, controlled climbing. 

Sessions typically last 30–45 minutes and focus on overcoming personal weaknesses, such as maintaining control during sustained climbs.

 

As a sport climber, my weekends are spent on local rope projects. When I’m close to a “send,” I reduce the volume of strength training, halving my usual sets. However, I’ve also successfully sent projects while maintaining full training volume.

Leading up to major trips—typically Thanksgiving, Christmas, and summer—I adjust my training based on the trip’s focus. 

● Winter trips: Primarily bouldering, where I target high-intensity finger strength and taper volume beforehand. 

● Summer trips: Focused on sport climbing, often in less-than-ideal conditions. I aim to send routes on the first try, an area I’ve worked to improve by refining my approach to crux sections and end-of-route endurance.

 

This past summer, I spent six weeks traveling to various sport climbing areas across the Northeast and Southeast. One key takeaway was the importance of practicing specific sections of a route immediately after an onsight attempt, especially the crux and final pumpy sections. This practice ensured I was confident and efficient when reaching those spots on subsequent attempts.

 

Another insight involved refining my shoe selection based on route style. I’ve settled on three Butora models:

 

● The Acro: My go-to for versatility, excelling in both edging and steep terrain.

● The Gomi: Ideal for longer routes with technical edging and smearing, offering comfort without sacrificing performance. 

● The Acro Comp: Best for steep routes requiring toe hooks and pulling, also great for warm-ups to fine-tune footwork before switching to more powerful shoes. 

If you’ve read any articles on similar training topics, I’d love to hear your thoughts! 

Best regards, 

Adam